How to grow potatoes in a barrel. When there is little space at the dacha, we grow potatoes in a barrel. Different ways to plant potatoes - video

03.03.2020

When a suitable container has been found, there is no need to rush into planting. Before the potatoes are immersed in the ground, it is important to remove the bottom from the barrel or drill a sufficiently large number of drainage holes in it. It would be nice if similar perforations appeared on the side walls of a high container.

This technique will help remove excess moisture and allow oxygen to penetrate to the roots of the plants. In the case of potatoes, this is doubly important, since the root system is not so large, but the load on it is enormous.

The technology for growing potatoes in a barrel implies that the amount of planting material, and then the tubers formed in the container, is quite large. So that the gardener can control the delivery of moisture and oxygen:

a perforated hose or plastic pipe plugged at the bottom with cuts at a distance of up to 20 cm from each other is vertically inserted into a high barrel.
the open end, through which, after planting is completed, it will be possible to water and feed the potato plantation, is taken outside.

If you connect a compressor or pump to the hole, the soil in the barrel can easily be saturated with oxygen. And the root drip irrigation system will help to evenly moisten the soil under the potatoes.

Planting potatoes in a barrel and caring for the plantation

Potatoes in a barrel cannot do without a safe, nutritious soil mixture. For this crop, soil consisting of equal parts of ready-made compost or rotted humus and ordinary garden soil is suitable.

Since the plants will be grown in an almost enclosed small volume, it is important that pests dangerous to potatoes do not end up in the barrel along with the soil. Therefore, soil for neutralizing insects and their larvae:

pre-calcined or steamed;
Even in the fall, before planting, they are treated with chemicals.

In the fall, when the soil for growing potatoes in a barrel is just being prepared, a mixture of ammonium nitrate or urea, double superphosphate, potassium compounds and ash is added to it. In sandy soils deficient in magnesium, magnesium sulfate and dolomite flour are added. Then the barrel is placed in its designated place and soil is poured onto the bottom in a layer of 10 to 15 cm. Seed sprouted tubers or pieces with hatched eyes are laid on the ground, pressing slightly, and ten centimeters of soil mixture is poured on top of the potatoes.

When the sprouts rise 2–3 cm above the ground level, they must be sprinkled with soil mixture again. If the plant is not allowed to form full-fledged foliage, the potato directs all its efforts to the development of the root system with new stolons, on which tubers will subsequently appear. The process of adding earth is repeated until the barrel is filled a meter. There is no need to make the soil layer higher. Until the end of the season, plants may not have enough strength to form high-quality tubers, since all potential will be wasted on the formation of the root system.

All this time, the soil is actively watered, preventing it from drying out, which in a small container is very likely and dangerous for planting potatoes.

Feeding potatoes when grown in a barrel

Potatoes, especially in a barrel, where the nutritional properties of the soil are quickly depleted, are in dire need of mineral and organic fertilizers.

The following is used as fertilizer for potatoes when planting:

manure, traditionally applied for seed material;
complex mineral fertilizers for this crop;
a mixture of three parts of pure lowland peat and manure;
three- or four-day infusions of green manure.

When the sprouts rise 10–12 cm, the plants should be fed with potassium and nitrogen fertilizers. When growing potatoes in a barrel, fertilizers are easier to use in liquid form at the rate of 1–2 liters per bush.

If potatoes are fertilized with urea, then dolomite or lime flour is used to neutralize the inevitable acidification of the soil. The best results from fertilization can only be expected with sufficient watering.

Early varieties are fed once, while late-ripening potatoes require two feedings. It is impossible to overuse nitrogen fertilizers when planting potatoes in barrels, since excess nitrogen can accumulate in the tubers in the form of nitrates, which negatively affect the quality of the crop, scab resistance and storage ability. If urea or another nitrogen-containing agent is used to fertilize potatoes, it is better to combine it with potassium fertilizers for potatoes when planting in barrels.

At the end of flowering, plants can be fed with fertilizers containing phosphorus. This substance promotes the outflow of nutrients from the tops to the tubers.

11 ways to plant potatoes and get a high yield

Of more than a dozen tuberous plants of the New World, only potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes have reached us. But if Jerusalem artichoke remained more of an overseas delicacy, or even a malicious weed of summer cottages, then the potatoes not only arrived - they marched in victory! In the Soviet comedy “Girls,” Toska selflessly recalls potato dishes, but that list is far from complete. But what's the point of listing various delicacies when potatoes are the basis of our diet? Perhaps this is the reason for the variety of methods of cultivating crops in summer cottages.

Potatoes grow almost anywhere, but it is preferable to plant them in fertilized, light, well-drained soils. To improve the composition of clay soils in summer cottages, experienced gardeners recommend adding sand. To obtain consistently good potato yields, it is necessary to add manure, potash fertilizers or ash to the soil.

In addition, according to agricultural technology, it is not recommended to plant potatoes in the same areas for several years in a row. Pathogens, Colorado potato beetle larvae and other pests persist in the soil. If you constantly fertilize the land, add peat-humus mixtures, manure, and periodically update seed material, you can plant potatoes in the same place for several years, but all these measures are not as effective as following the principles of crop rotation. Root crops are best grown on virgin lands.

When intensively cultivating a summer cottage, the best predecessors of potatoes are legumes. It also grows well after rye, legumes - vetch, alfalfa. Potatoes feel great after rapeseed and white mustard. The use of these crops as green manure not only enriches the soil with mineral compounds, but also prevents the spread of diseases and pests.

Research conducted at the Agricultural Academy named after K.A. Timiryazev, showed that adding a mass of green manure to the soil gives the same effect as half-rotted manure. Among vegetables, the best predecessors of potatoes turned out to be root vegetables (carrots, beets, radishes), cucumbers and other pumpkin crops. Experts do not recommend planting potatoes after cabbage.

To harvest a good potato harvest, you need to prepare the area and tubers for planting

Regardless of the method of planting potatoes, you need to carefully select the tubers. The seed material must be extremely healthy, the tubers clean and dry, without areas of rotting. After sorting the tubers, they begin to germinate them. This is not necessary, but it allows you to speed up the time of appearance of the first shoots after planting the potatoes in the ground, and also makes it possible to once again select the best tubers, discarding those that form eyes too slowly or produce weak, thin seedlings.

For germination, it is recommended to keep the tubers in a sufficiently lit room at a temperature of +12–15°C for 2–4 weeks. At this time, some gardeners treat the tubers with growth stimulants and weak fertilizer solutions. Tubers are often disinfected and treated with various means to prevent potato diseases.

The proven folk method of disinfection with ash is still successfully used to this day. A bucket of water is poured into 1 kg of ash, and the tubers are dipped into this solution before planting. There are many other ways to process potatoes both before germination and before planting: for example, use a solution of phytosporin or complex preparations such as Prestige, Maxim.

Potatoes are planted in the ground only after making sure that the soil has warmed up to +6–7°C 10 cm deep. Planting at lower temperatures, up to +3–5°C degrees, is used only for sprouted tubers. Early and very early potato varieties are also planted in unheated soil; the result will be better than with later planting.

In addition to temperature, it is important to consider arable suitability. The soil is considered ready if it crumbles well and its density is low, this ensures good access of oxygen to the germinating tubers.

Depending on the composition of the soil and the location of the site, the timing of planting potatoes may vary. More fertile lands need to be sown earlier, since tubers with a high nutrient content develop more slowly and require more time to ripen. On light soils, southern slopes and at higher elevations, it is also advisable to start planting potatoes earlier.

The process of planting potatoes is a sequence of stages:

Preparing the soil in accordance with the chosen method of planting potatoes.
Pre-planting preparation of tubers (sorting, germination, processing of seed material).
Planting potatoes taking into account the maturity of the soil and the degree of its warming.

In the future, you only need to provide the plants with adequate watering, regular loosening of the soil and destruction of weeds.

Traditional planting methods

The usual methods of planting potatoes are quite varied: at least five methods can be distinguished on how to do this.

Planting under a shovel in single ridges and double rows

Environmental conditions, climate and soil conditions determine the choice of potato planting method: ridge or smooth. Moisture from the soil evaporates less with smooth planting, for which:

Continuous planting of potatoes - video

As a result of ridge planting, full air access to the soil and its warming are ensured. This method is recommended for use when groundwater is high on heavy loams. In areas of good and excessive moisture, the ridges are cut in the fall after applying organic fertilizers.

The uneven surface of the soil accumulates heat, which during cold weather it releases to the adjacent layer of air, creating comfortable conditions for potato growth.

The optimal row spacing for ridge planting is 70 cm. The ridges are formed at a height of 12–15 cm, and the depth of planting of tubers is 6–8 cm. Naturally, the larger the tubers, the greater the depth; small tubers do not need to be planted deeply. Holes are dug at a distance of 25–30 cm from the edge of the ridge, so that there is something to hill up the potatoes with later. 25–30 cm are also left between them. If the soil is not very well fertilized, the feeding area should be larger.

An original version of ridge planting of potatoes - video

The beds can be either single or double. Recently, gardeners have given preference to growing potatoes in wide beds (140 cm) in two rows. With this scheme, the number of tubers in the nest and their weight increases. Due to better ventilation of plants, plantings are either later affected by late blight or avoid the disease.

In the case of forming double rows, after the first row of holes has been dug, you need to lay the second row in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 25–30 cm. Tubers, depending on their size, are buried to a depth of 6–8 cm. Subsequently, the nearest row of holes is hilled on each side of the ridge.

Planting potatoes in double rows increases yield

Trench planting method

To plant potatoes using the trench method, the soil should be prepared in the fall. You need to dig deep, up to half a meter, trenches the entire length of the bed. Plant residues, leaves, peat, compost, straw, humus are poured into them and left until spring. In the spring, the trenches can be covered with black film to speed up warming up.

Prepare the soil in advance for planting potatoes in trenches

When the soil has warmed up properly, you can begin planting.

Plant residues that have sagged since the fall are sprinkled with ash and soil to a depth of about 3–5 cm. To prevent late blight, you can treat the trench with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 2–5 g per 10 liters of water.
Pre-sprouted tubers are carefully planted in prepared trenches at a distance of 25–30 cm, again covered with a peat-humus mixture, compost, and mown grass with a layer of 8–10 cm and covered with film.
After the first shoots appear, the film is removed, the seedlings are similarly covered with compost mass to a height of 10 cm and covered again.
After new seedlings appear, this procedure is repeated, after which holes are cut in the film for the emerging seedlings. In this way, weed suppression is achieved, while the tubers are provided with heat and moisture due to the processes of decomposition of plant residues.

With the trench planting method, there is no need to hill up the bushes or loosen the soil. According to gardeners, this method, compared to conventional ones, provides significantly higher yields.

Deep planting method

In general, potato growers and simple summer residents speak out against deep planting of potatoes. For normal growth and development of potatoes, heated soil is needed, and the lower the level of planting of tubers, the lower the temperature, which means the later the potatoes will germinate, and this, in conditions of a short summer, can destroy the crop. The gardener’s task is to ensure friendly shoots so that in the future some bushes do not oppress others.

The standard depth for planting tubers is 6–12 cm. On the other hand, on light soils there is less moisture in the upper layers, therefore, you need to plant potatoes deeper to provide the plant with enough moisture. The best advisers for choosing planting depth are experience and knowledge of the climatic characteristics of the region and soil composition.

Basic planting patterns (depth and density)

In order to ensure early, friendly shoots, scientists from the K.A. Agricultural Academy. Timiryazev suggests planting potatoes on medium loamy soil to a depth of 4–6 cm. This, among other things, avoids some crop diseases.

On light soils, potatoes are planted to a depth of 14–16 cm. On loamy soils in the Moscow region, when the depth of planting tubers is reduced from 12 cm to 6 cm, the yield increases, but on sandy and sandy loam soils, on the contrary, it decreases.

Depending on the size of the tubers and the feeding area, the planting density changes. Early ripening varieties with erect tops and a compact bush, as well as small seed potatoes of any other varieties, are planted more densely. When using tubers weighing 50–80 g for planting, the optimal planting density is considered to be 5.5–6 pieces/m2. For small tubers the norm is increased to 7, and for large tubers it is reduced to 4.5–5 pieces per 1 m2.

New planting methods and their benefits

Recently, several new ways of planting potatoes have become known: in bags, barrels, boxes. Probably, in the absence of free space and a great desire to get a potato harvest, gardeners turn on their ingenuity.

How to plant potatoes in bags, barrels and boxes

In a lighted place, they install containers in which they intend to grow potatoes: barrels, boxes. Some summer residents even use sugar bags.

Planting potatoes in bags goes like this:

pour humus up to 30 cm high at the bottom of the bag;
lay out 4–5 sprouted potato tubers at a distance of 20–25 cm from each other;
cover the top with soil, humus, and rotted compost to a depth of 8–10 cm;
watered.

Subsequently, as the shoots sprout, add the peat-humus mixture two or three more times. During the summer, bags of potatoes are watered several times, especially during the period of budding and flowering. After the potatoes have bloomed and the tops have withered, you can harvest. Sugar bags are capable of allowing water to pass through due to their structure; if this property does not exist, plants should be provided with drainage holes in the container.

Planting potatoes in bags - video

Reviews from gardeners who planted potatoes in bags vary. For some, the overall results are disappointing. A definite plus is the good quality of the land after harvesting. And although everyone received few potatoes, the tubers were clean and healthy.

The bottoms are removed from old wooden barrels or tubs before planting. When using plastic containers, drainage holes must be drilled in the walls and bottom. Further activities are similar to planting potatoes in bags.

The main thing with all these planting methods is to cover the emerging sprouts with soil, humus, and a soil-compost mixture in a timely manner, so that the potatoes devote their energy to the formation of roots, and not into greens. Every time the sprouts reach a height of 5–6 cm, you need to add soil to twice the height. This procedure must be repeated at least 3-4 times.

Harvesting after planting potatoes in a plastic box - video

In conditions of limited dacha space, plastic boxes, various containers, and improvised containers are used. The planting technique is identical; it is important to ensure good soil drainage, otherwise the crop may rot.

Unconventional planting methods

There are several new, unconventional ways to plant potatoes, some of which do not involve digging up the soil. But those who tried it received consistently high yields.

Potatoes without digging up the ground and planting in the grass

In everyday life, Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima, the author of many books and video courses on hassle-free site cultivation, is guided by simple principles: do not dig, do not weed, do not water, and a few other “don’ts.” Likewise, she recommends immediately placing potatoes on the ground, on a bed of herbs and covering them with straw, covered from the wind with lutrasil.

As you mow the lawn, you gradually need to increase the layer of featherbed on the potatoes, adding new layers of compost or fresh grass.

Method of planting potatoes under straw from Galina Kizima - video

According to reviews from gardeners, planting potatoes under straw in virgin or heavily neglected areas is especially beneficial. Mown grass, tightly covering the soil, inhibits the growth of weeds. In the fall, after harvesting, summer residents receive excellent quality soil as a bonus. By digging up the remains of rotted straw, the same area can be enriched with organic matter.

How to plant in sawdust

Many summer residents successfully use wet sawdust to germinate potato tubers. In the city they can be purchased at pet stores. Wet, pre-steamed and cooled sawdust is placed on the bottom of a plastic container with a layer of 2 cm. Carefully lay the tubers on top with their eyes down and quite tightly, then cover them again with a layer of sawdust and repeat everything several times. After everything is packed, the plastic container is placed in a spacious plastic bag, the edges of which are tied, leaving a small “window”. The condition of the seedlings is periodically checked. You should not overdry the sawdust, so it is recommended to spray them with water at room temperature from a spray bottle.

Sprouting potatoes on sawdust - video

This method is especially good because it allows you to germinate potato tubers in a city apartment long before the start of the gardening season. There are two fundamental points when using sawdust:

they should be moist but not wet;
The tubers should be placed on the sawdust only with their eyes down.

When planting potatoes with their eyes down, the bush becomes wider, since during development the seedlings have to go around the mother tuber, as a result, each of them is better illuminated due to its distance from the others. Accordingly, photosynthesis in each sprout is more intense.

In the future, the tubers need to be transported and planted as carefully as possible. The sawdust can then be used on the site as mulch or dug into the ground.

Cascade landing

The cascade planting method is used when it is necessary to plant potatoes on slopes. This is a labor-intensive process; it is necessary to level plots of land on several sites, smoothing out the relief. At the same time, intense rains can nullify the results of work in a short period of time.

The plots for planting potatoes are prepared in the fall. The soil is loosened and furrows and ridges 12–15 cm high are formed. The distance between rows is 60–70 cm, the location of the furrows is strictly across the slope. Winter grasses (rapeseed, mustard) are sown in the ridges, which have time to grow before the first frost.

In winter, these furrows and ridges located across the slope contribute to snow retention over the entire surface of the site. The height of the treated area due to the ridges and furrows is 12–15 cm higher than that of the untreated area; the depth of soil freezing there is less and its water permeability is maintained. In spring, snow melts gradually on prepared slopes. Water is retained in the furrows, and the slopes lose less fertile layer when they melt.

After the soil warms up in the spring, potatoes are planted in the furrows. They are filled in from two ridges, digging in the remains of winter herbs. As a result, instead of ridges, there are ditches in which water is retained. The use of winter grasses promotes water retention, reduces soil loss and enriches its composition with organic compounds.

How to plant potatoes under cardboard

This method is reminiscent of the method of planting under straw, but here, in addition to potatoes, you need cardboard. After the snow melts and the ground warms up, you can begin to prepare the site. The area allocated for planting is covered with thick cardboard. There is no need to dig, weed or mow the grass first.

If there is a snowless winter or the soil under the proposed plantings is too dry, you need to water the soil before laying down the cardboard.

For a large planting area, several sheets of cardboard are laid overlapping with a decent margin - up to 30 cm, so that weeds do not break through the joints. At a distance of 25–30 cm, X-shaped cuts are made, where the sprouted potatoes are placed and the edges of the cardboard are closed so as not to injure the eyes. The potatoes remain, as it were, in the house.

As the tops sprout, they need to be mulched with straw in a layer of 10–15 cm several times during the summer. To prevent it from flying off the cardboard, you can use lutrasil. If the summer is not too dry, potatoes, according to gardeners, will not even need to be watered. And in the fall you won’t have to dig the ground to harvest. All the potatoes will lie under the cardboard; you just need to rake up the remaining tops and straw, and then remove the cardboard itself.

To prepare for planting potatoes, just cover the area with cardboard.

The method of planting under cardboard, as well as under straw, significantly improves the condition of the soil.

Features of planting under film and agrofibre

To get an early harvest, plant under film. Potatoes are planted using a smooth method. After planting, level the soil with a rake and stretch the film. A wide piece of polyethylene can be used to cover two or three rows of potatoes at once. The film is spread freely, boards and heavy objects are placed on the edges so that it is not blown away by the wind. Gardeners often use dark plastic water bottles as pressure. During the day, the water in them heats up, and at night it gives off heat. Polyethylene film helps warm the soil, retains moisture and protects potato sprouts from frost.

The disadvantage of this method is that the covering layer does not allow oxygen to pass through. In this case, the seedlings will not be able to consume oxygen, so there is a high risk of plants overheating. Therefore, it is recommended to monitor the temperature under the film and ventilate the plantings in time. If there is a threat of frost, in cases where the potato sprouts are tall enough, you can stretch the film over the arcs. The greenhouse also needs to be ventilated periodically.

Potatoes are grown in a similar way using modern agrofibre, spandbond, white and black. Light cover the early potato plantings. The material protects the sprouts, retaining heat, but allows air to pass through, unlike film. White agrofibre is also laid loosely, the edges are secured or covered with earth. As the potatoes grow, arches are used if necessary.

Black spunbond is used differently. It is spread on the ground, in the places where the potatoes are planted, cross cuts are made and the potatoes are embedded in them. Dark spunbond does not protect potatoes from frost after germination. But in good weather this method is very effective. Spandbond, without interfering with aeration and water penetration during irrigation, suppresses weeds as the bushes grow. Dark agrofibre acts as mulch for potatoes.

Black spunbond suppresses the growth of weeds around potato plantings

Planting potatoes in a greenhouse

This method requires a lot of preparatory work. Greenhouses for potatoes need to be prepared in the fall. It is important to have healthy seed material, stock up on peat, humus, compost, and ash. To get a good harvest, you need to heat the greenhouse and monitor the temperature.

The work consists of successive stages:

First, completely remove all the fertile soil layer from the greenhouse.
Warm drainage bedding is laid in layers at the bottom of the greenhouse: peat, humus to a height of 10 cm.
Again, pour a fertile layer of soil with additives (humus, ash, compost) up to 20 cm high.

The greenhouse begins to heat up. Within 3-4 days the soil will warm up enough to plant potatoes. Seed material is germinated in advance (in boxes) at a temperature of about +20–25°C.

The potato harvest in the greenhouse is harvested 10–14 days after the end of flowering

After the eyes appear, the potatoes are transferred to a bright place with a lower temperature until the skin on the tubers turns green. Tubers ready for planting are planted after all these procedures into holes at a distance of 25 cm. The planting depth is 8–10 cm, the distance between rows is 60–65 cm. At this stage, the potatoes are not watered; planting needs to ensure a constant air temperature within + 20°C. At this time, they strictly ensure that the soil surface does not dry out and water the plantings after emergence with water at room temperature, no more than 1–2 liters per bush. Gradually, as the potatoes grow, the watering rate is increased to 10 liters per bush.

Further care of the plantings comes down to moisture, inter-row cultivation and weed control. During the period of sprouting, the temperature in the greenhouse is reduced to +18–20°C; as buds form and during the entire flowering period, the temperature is maintained at +20–23°C; in the future it can be lowered again.

Original planting methods for high yields

Gardeners are constantly improving their tools and methods in search of more efficient ways to cultivate the land.

Planting potatoes using the Fokin method

Engineer-inventor V.V. Fokin came up with a tool for planting potatoes in an unconventional way. In appearance, the device resembles a cane with a round knob with a diameter of 55 mm. At a distance of 120 mm from the top of the knob, two planks are embedded.

Fokin's tool for planting potatoes allows you to make identical holes quickly and accurately

Fokin suggests, pressing on the plank stop, making holes in the ground in rows at a distance of 25–30 cm from the edge of the bed and the same distance between the holes. The depth of the holes can be changed by applying pressure to the stop, depending on the size of the seed potatoes. The second row of holes must be made offset so that they are staggered. 1 tablespoon of ash is added to the resulting recesses with a diameter of 55 mm and a depth of 120 mm, and seed potatoes are laid. After this, the holes are covered with humus.

According to Fokin, his method has a number of advantages. You can plant potatoes alone and dose fertilizers. You don't need a lot of land to fill the potatoes, just a handful. As a result, the air reaches the roots, and the compacted soil promotes the capillary flow of moisture from the lower layers of the soil. As they germinate, the seedlings are earthed up, taking soil from the edges of the bed and from the very boundary.

Combined planting of potatoes and legumes

When planting potatoes, some gardeners throw a couple of pea beans into the hole. The bottom line is that peas, when germinating, enrich the soil with nitrogen compounds. Close to this is another method proposed by Sally Cunningham.

Potatoes are planted deep into the trench and mulched with straw, and bush beans are planted nearby, on the right and left. First, the soil is collected on one side. Potatoes are planted in the trench itself, and bush beans are planted in an area free of soil. As the potatoes sprout from the unplanted edge of the trench, soil is poured over the seedlings. This is done several times. By the time the trench is completely filled, bush beans can be planted again on the side freed from soil, since while the potatoes were growing and covered with soil, beans had ripened in the first bed.

When planted together with beans, potatoes constantly receive nitrogenous compounds, and summer residents consistently harvest beans, potatoes, and a new bean crop.

Planting potatoes and beans together is quite convenient: the soil is enriched with nitrogen, and the crop can be harvested several times per season

Some grow potatoes using old-fashioned methods, while others are constantly improving their skills and looking for modern and original ways of cultivating the crop. It is important that potatoes continue to be planted, grown and dug.

Armenuhi Poghosyan

Potatoes have long become the most popular and widely cultivated vegetable in Russia. The methods of its cultivation are very diverse. And each is touted as a proven technique that guarantees increased yields. Planting potatoes in a barrel, as one of the new growing methods, is designed to provide an excellent harvest in a small area.

Why do they plant in barrels?

It is unknown who and when proposed vertical planting of potatoes. The stated advantages of the method are increased yield and space saving. Therefore, experiments with how to grow potatoes in a barrel should be carried out by owners of small plots of land.

This technology allows you to increase the yield of each potato bush, as well as reduce labor costs when cultivating this crop.

Growing potatoes in a barrel means creating optimal conditions for the development of the plant’s root system. Due to this, the length of underground shoots and the number of stolons on which tubers are set increases many times over. Therefore, the yield of the potato bush also increases. According to experimental gardeners - five times.

Important! The planting barrel can be placed in places that are unsuitable for creating a garden bed: on undug soil, on a balcony, near a barn, on a paved area.

Description of the method

The planting technology described step by step will help you try this method on your own site and avoid making offensive mistakes that will reduce the benefits of the new method to zero.

Growing container

Select a suitable vertical structure. An old iron or plastic barrel, a bag, a wicker basket, or a wooden box will do, which is convenient to build up gradually as the potato bush grows.

The height of the container is arbitrary, but not higher than 1 meter. In the barrel, holes are made in the walls to allow oxygen to enter so that the roots do not suffocate under a large layer of soil. The holes are placed at a distance of 20 cm from each other. The bottom is removed or frequent holes are punched every 5 cm. In a knocked together wooden box there are enough gaps between the boards. The net or bag does not require preparation for planting.

You should not grow potatoes in a bucket. The volume of soil for adequate nutrition and development of roots in such a container is not enough.

Landing

Seed potatoes are prepared in the usual way: sprayed with nutrient and protective solutions, greened and germinated for 4-6 weeks in a dark place at + 16–18ºС.

Prepared tubers are overgrown with white sprouts in the amount of at least five pieces and 5-8 mm long.

The main feature of this growing technology is as follows.

The tubers grow on stolons that grow from the underground white part of the stem. Potato sprouts remain light colored until they are exposed to sunlight.

It makes no sense to cover green sprouts with soil. Stolons do not grow on them and tubers do not form. Green stems produce only leaves.

Important! It is useless to plant potatoes headlong, covering green sprouts to increase yield.

Apply 15 cm of soil with compost in a 1:1 ratio to the bottom. You can plant 8 potatoes in a standard 200 liter barrel, spreading them evenly over the entire area. A larger quantity of potatoes will not increase the yield, but will only reduce the size of the grown tubers.

Sprinkle 100 g of ash or drunken tea on top of the potatoes. This will fluff up the soil and provide additional nutrition. The potatoes are covered with a 15 cm layer of soil and watered with water. To prevent the emerging sprouts from turning green ahead of time, the barrel is covered with a lid.

In two weeks, sprouts will appear from the ground. They must be covered again with soil to a height of 10-15 cm, without waiting for the shoots to turn green. This operation is repeated 6-7 times until the barrel is filled. The layer of soil above the potatoes is no more than 60-100 cm. The soil is finally filled in before the beginning or middle of July. Next, the bush should be allowed to grow not roots, but tops and grow in the usual manner.

Growing food potatoes in a wooden or metal barrel is usually done in very small areas in areas where the temperature in summer does not rise above +14-21 ºС, which is comfortable for potato growth.

Growing

Care consists of timely adding humus, grass, hay under growing bushes, watering, fertilizing and protection from infections and pests.

In addition to reducing the gardener’s labor and occupied land, such planting significantly saves water consumption. Three to four rains over the summer provide sufficient moisture for the growing plant.

Potatoes grow tubers well at soil moisture of 75-80%. Therefore, you must constantly ensure that the substrate in the barrel does not dry out. If there is enough rain, no watering is needed. If the weather is hot, the potatoes will need water to grow. It is especially important to ensure soil moisture before flowering, 1 and 3 weeks after it.

Feeding of early ripening varieties is carried out once a season, during flowering. Liquid formulations are used:

infusion of ash;
organics;
herbal collection;
solution of complex or microfertilizers.

In mid-summer, late blight appears in the garden. To protect the bushes from infection, they switch to mulching with hot grass and watering. It is necessary to place such a covering under the bush once every 2 weeks so that it does not touch the stems.

Cleaning

Additional natural heating of the soil in a vertical container will ensure faster ripening of the new crop by about a month. When the tops turn yellow, begin harvesting.

Important! 1-2 weeks before digging, the tops are cut off. This allows the tubers to ripen well and develop a strong skin.

To clean the barrel, turn it over. The soil is raked out of it along with the potatoes. Eight potatoes planted will yield 8 buckets of tubers.

A similar method should be used for planting several bushes of very early varieties that yield a harvest in 2 months. Veneta, Agria, and Rosara performed well.

Advantages and disadvantages

Planting potatoes in a barrel has a number of undeniable advantages over conventional cultivation technology:

Each tuber is provided with a larger nutritional area.
Growing conditions are optimal: loose soil, mulch, humidity, fertilizing.
A free-standing potato bush receives much more sunlight, which it desperately needs.
The soil is not dug for planting.
No weeding or hilling required.
Harvest ripening is accelerating.
It is possible to grow potatoes without beds.

Alternative ways of growing the most democratic product - potatoes - have always attracted the minds of summer residents. Today we will talk about the so-called warm planting of a popular vegetable - growing potatoes in barrels. This option is considered one of the highest yielding, especially if you have a fairly modest-sized hacienda.

Preparing to plant potatoes

It is interesting that modern manufacturers have already realized how popular potatoes from a barrel have become and have prepared many variations of such a device. The containers themselves have a special hole, or “window”.

The main condition is that the height of the vessel is not lower than 30 cm, and the soil has a certain moisture content and is sufficiently loose. If you don’t have a special container, then you shouldn’t rush to plant.

Sometimes summer residents use special nets and form barrels from them. This perforation has its pros and cons. On the one hand, you will provide ventilation to the soil and free the roots from excess moisture, on the other hand, your green basket can increase in volume due to additional germinating rhizomes. For timely watering of a closed barrel, use a regular plastic pipe. Holes are drilled in it at approximately a distance of 20 cm from each other.

The open end, through which, after planting is completed, it will be possible to water and feed the potato plantation, is brought out. If you have a compressor, you can also enrich the soil with oxygen. Soil preparation plays the most important role in this type of potato growing. Warm, humid and confined spaces allow pests to spread easily. To disinfect the soil, it can be heated in a conventional oven. Spread a layer of soil evenly on a sheet about 5 cm high and place it in a preheated oven for half an hour. For potatoes, the best soil is made from equal parts of ready-made compost or rotted humus and ordinary garden soil.

Sometimes, to increase frost resistance, a mixture of ammonium nitrate or urea, double superphosphate, potassium compounds and ash is added to the soil. In sandy lands deficient in magnesium, magnesium sulfate and dolomite flour are added.

An important point is that the tuber should have “eyes”. The tubers are covered with a layer of soil. The process is repeated. If you prevent the plant from creating a huge green “hair”, all the energy will be spent on the formation of tubers. The process of adding earth is repeated until the barrel is filled a meter.

Don't forget about fertilizing. In a limited space, tubers quickly lose strength; the root system needs additional stimulation. Typically, the following fertilizers are used: complex mineral fertilizers, a mixture of peat and manure, as well as infusions of green manure.

Advice! When growing potatoes in a barrel, it is easier to use fertilizer in liquid form at the rate of 1-2 liters per bush.

If you fertilize with urea, inevitable acidification can be combated by adding dolomite or lime flour. Early varieties are fed once, while late-ripening potatoes require two feedings. It is impossible to overuse nitrogen fertilizers when planting potatoes in barrels, since excess nitrogen can accumulate in the tubers in the form of nitrates, which negatively affect the quality of the crop, scab resistance and storage ability.

Advantages of growing potatoes in barrels

If you follow the basic rules of planting and care, then this option for growing potatoes can be called the most effective. In a small space you get a solid harvest. Thanks to additional heating, such “fields” ripen somewhat earlier.

“Extreme” methods of growing potatoes in bags, barrels, boxes, etc. known to our gardeners not so long ago.

But many have long noticed how tubers that accidentally fell into some container sprouted and also brought a small “harvest.”

Let's look at this method of growing vegetables, consider its main advantages and subtleties.

Preparing potatoes for planting in a barrel

Even in small quantities, provided the required humidity is maintained and the nutrient medium is maintained, potatoes can produce good fruit. This is the basis for the methods of planting potatoes in various containers.

The barrel can be anything: wood, plastic, wicker, iron, etc. the main thing is that it is at least 30 cm in height, the roots receive the necessary amount of moisture and air, and the soil is sufficiently loose.

Immediately after finding the desired container, do not rush and start planting seedlings. First you need to clean the barrel - remove debris, wash it, and then drill a large hole at the bottom (or many small ones) to organize drainage.

For potatoes, this is extremely important, since the root system of this plant is quite small, but the load on it will be simply enormous. The features of this growing technology mean that there should be quite a lot of soil, and then a lot of tubers.

To keep moisture and nitrogen levels under control, we need:

Make a hole closer to the bottom and insert a hose with holes there at a distance of about 20 cm from each other;
Bring out the open end of the hose that will be used to water the seedlings.

As an option, you can make a hole in the barrel and connect a compressor to it, which will saturate the soil with oxygen, and the “drip irrigation” that we did will evenly moisten the soil.

Planting potatoes in a barrel: technology and plantation care

We need nutritious soil that will contain equal amounts of compost and garden soil. It is important to control that pests do not appear in the barrel, since our space is almost closed.

In order to “secure” the land, it is necessary:

Steam or thoroughly pierce the soil;
Before planting, in the fall, treat it with strong chemicals;
In the fall, while the land is “preparing” for planting, ammonium nitrate, ash, potassium and superphosphate must be added to it;
If the soil is sandy, then you will also need to add magnesium sulfate and dolomite flour.

Now the barrel can be placed in its “howl” place, and its bottom can be covered with a 10-15 cm layer of soil. Pressing lightly, you need to place sprouted potatoes or tubers in the soil for planting. The whole thing is covered with 10 cm of soil on top.

After the sprouts have sprouted 2-3 cm, they will need to be covered with soil again. This procedure will need to be repeated until the barrel is one meter full. There is no need to make the soil layer higher - it may not be enough to form good tubers.

At all these stages, the soil needs active watering - it should not be allowed to dry out, as it is dangerous for potatoes in such a small and closed container.

How to build a barrel for planting potatoes

There are a lot of different options for creating such a barrel for planting potatoes, which is guaranteed to please you with a good result from the work done. The simplest of them are:

Making a “nursery barrel” from an ordinary container (the method is described in detail above);
Wicker or wood construction. This can be an ordinary basket with a height of 30 cm, or a wooden box with drilled holes for ventilation;
A container made from old tires that are arranged in a “pyramid”;
Metal mesh wrapped in straw.

Potato feeding in a barrel

In a barrel, the nutritional properties of the earth will quickly deplete. Therefore, the soil needs to be systematically fed and fertilized with mineral and organic substances.

What you can use:

Advantages of growing

The benefits of growing potatoes in a barrel are obvious to any experienced gardener. Here are just a few of them:

Due to the uniform distribution of moisture and good heating, tubers can be started much earlier than when growing vegetables using conventional technology;
Due to the peculiarities of soil treatment, there is no need to weed it and hill up the first shoots;
The bushes will not be afraid of pests that exist in the deep layers of the earth, and they will also be practically not susceptible to diseases.

Moreover, having prepared the soil for planting potatoes in a barrel, it can be reused. Only after harvesting will it be necessary to sow the barrel with green manure and apply fertilizer.

Alternative methods

It happens that the necessary container for planting a vegetable is not at hand. Then alternative methods can be used. All you need is to find a free place on the territory and dig a hole about 40 cm deep there. Compost is laid out at the bottom with a layer of 7-11 cm.

You can also plant huge potatoes in a hole. It is laid out on its bottom, and sprinkled with a similar layer of compost on top. Then, after the first sprout appears, 2 cm high, it needs to be sprinkled with 2 cm of compost. The process is repeated until the hole is filled to the top.

Such simple manipulations can bring a generous reward - a hole completely filled with the best potatoes. From one such improvised “barrel” you can collect at least a bucket of tubers.

The bag is another tool that can be used if you don't have a barrel on hand. It allows you to get an early potato harvest without serious hassle. What to do:

Take a bag of flour or potatoes, clean it of dust, dirt and debris;
Place the container in a warm place for a while and let it sit;
Cover it completely with soil and manure and tie it off;
Place the bag on its side, make cuts in the form of crosses on it;
Plant potato seeds or tubers in these cuts;
After it warms up, take the seedlings outside.

These potatoes do not need watering, but it is important to ensure that there is moisture in the soil. If it dries out, you should moisten the soil a little. The advantage of this method is that you do not have to deal with wild plants, pests and diseases.

Today the whole world knows about the beneficial properties of potatoes. In many countries, this vegetable is the basis of the diet. Accordingly, many breeders around the world are fighting to increase crop yields. Not only different varieties appear, but also unusual growing methods. One of which was growing potatoes in a barrel. The technology is distinguished by its simplicity and high efficiency, which is why it is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. How to get an excellent potato harvest from a barrel and what are the advantages of this method?

The history of such a fruit as potatoes begins more than 4000 years ago. Initially, it was a wild crop that attracted attention in Peru. Potatoes were first brought to the European part of the world by the Spaniards. Many considered the foreign vegetable dangerous. But there were those who immediately saw the benefits of potatoes and even considered them healing. It took a whole century for the tubers to be appreciated and loved, first by Europeans, and then by the whole world.

Today there is no garden where potatoes are grown. Since the 17th century, the vegetable has been internationally recognized as a crop capable of feeding many people. In most cases, gardeners plant potatoes in the traditional way. But in order to increase productivity, they are increasingly used innovative technologies. Growing in boxes, bags, straw and barrels is gradually replacing cultivation in beds.

Technology for growing potatoes in a barrel

By planting a popular vegetable in this way, the gardener gets a larger harvest than with traditional cultivation. From meter to meter you can collect more than one bag of tubers. Moreover, you don’t need to do anything supernatural or complicated. But before planting you will have to do some preparatory work.

Preparatory stage

To plant, you need to prepare a barrel with a volume of at least seven liters. But to prevent the potatoes from boiling on the roots, we paint them white in advance. Then we remove the bottom to allow excess moisture to escape unhindered. To ensure access of oxygen to the root system of future plantings, we make holes 1 cm in size in the walls of the barrel. Such air intakes should be located at a distance throughout the entire container 10–20 cm from each other. So, when the barrel is ready, you can proceed to the main stage.

Planting potatoes

What you need to do to get a good harvest:

If the sprouts are not covered with soil, they will germinate completely and only the stem part will develop further, and not the tubers. It is allowed to grow potatoes in a three-story barrel at once. This method is used when it is not possible to periodically add soil.

Caring for potatoes in a barrel

It is much easier to care for a crop planted in this way. During the season the plant is needed Water thoroughly 3-4 times. If the weather is dry, it is worth irrigating the vegetation more often. And by mid-July, all the nutrients from the soil have already been used to form potato tubers, so during this period the soil will need additional feeding.

For better results, it is recommended to introduce a mixture of EM-1 and wood soil as an additional feed 2-3 times a week. You can also use complex nutritional compositions, infusions of ash or organic fertilizers as top dressing.

The main thing in using this method of planting potatoes is the correct filling of the container. You need to fill the barrel with nutritious soil and supplement it with fertilizers. You can also place the remains of rotten boards and compost in the barrel. And small branches or grass placed under the barrel at the initial stage can accelerate the growth of potato tops. If all recommendations for planting and care are correctly followed, gardeners will receive a powerful tube-shaped system, which will be the key to a good harvest.

Advantages of the method

As always, the method of growing potatoes in a barrel has its opponents and supporters. When the technology was used by different gardeners under different conditions, the results were different. Despite this, such potato cultivation has its own undeniable advantages:

For those who don't have a barrel

A similar technology can be applied without using a container. A hole of 40 cm is dug in the area. But a dense layer of compost (8–10 cm) is laid at the bottom. Selected as planting material huge potato tuber. It is placed in a hole and sprinkled with a compost layer of the same volume. The emerging sprout (3 cm) is again sprinkled with a 2 cm layer. This continues until it is fully ripe. As a reward for your efforts, the dug hole is completely filled with fresh tubers. You can harvest a whole bucket of potatoes from one nest.

Using an alternative method of growing potatoes in a barrel, gardeners successfully increase yields and save resources (money, time and their own effort).

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