How to grow good cabbage in open ground. Growing early cabbage. Early cabbage: planting and care. Varieties of late cabbage

How to grow good cabbage outdoors. Growing early cabbage. Early cabbage: planting and care. Varieties of late cabbage

Cabbage is called the lady in the garden: it sits all so beautiful, round, smooth, in a thousand clothes ... But growing cabbage of excellent quality is not so easy. A rich harvest begins with growing healthy, strong seedlings. And here it is worth paying attention to the timing of planting cabbage. They depend on the variety and variety of cabbage. In this article we will analyze the timing of planting seeds for seedlings and planting it in open ground . We will talk about white and cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Savoy, etc. In a word, we tried to collect as much information as possible here.

Table: Planting dates for cabbage and other crops

The plate is convenient, but does not fully disclose all the information on the timing, so let's turn to other sources.

White cabbage

Varieties are divided into three types:

  • early,
  • mid-season,
  • late ripening.

Depending on the ripening period The time for sowing seeds for seedlings is calculated:

  • 45-50 days are subtracted from the date of possible planting of seedlings.

Seedlings of white cabbage of mid-season and late varieties are most often grown under film cover in open ground or in greenhouses, starting in April. Seedlings of early varieties can also be grown on the windowsill by sowing seeds in March (then it will be possible to harvest in late June - early July).

  • early cabbage: March 20 - 25 (harvest in late June - early July),
  • mid-season: from April 20 - 25 to May 1 - 3,
  • late ripening: from April 1 to April 15.

Seedlings in open ground White cabbage is usually planted at the following times:

  • early cabbage: late April - first ten days of May,
  • mid-season: from May 25 to June 5 (no later than June 10),
  • late ripening: May 15 - 25.

Seedlings ready for transplanting to a permanent location have 4–5 true leaves and a height of approximately 15 cm. Plants with more leaves are overgrown. It is recommended to tear off the extra leaves (the 2 bottom ones); they will eventually wither anyway, but until that moment they will only interfere with the plant. It is best to plant seedlings in the ground in the evening, and shade them the next day if the weather is hot and sunny.

Red cabbage ripens longer than white cabbage, so seeds are sown for seedlings earlier: late-ripening varieties are sown in early March, early-ripening varieties in early April.

Broccoli

Due to its excellent taste, this variety of cabbage is grown by almost all summer residents. It is planted in seedlings and sowing seeds in open ground. From personal experience we can say that excellent broccoli grows from seedlings we grow on the windowsill. In March, we sow seeds for seedlings, and at the end of May we plant seedlings in open ground. We cover young, not yet strong plants with cut 5-liter bottles. The result is mini-greenhouses. The seedlings are doing well. Our favorite variety is Linda. Well, now in more detail about the timing.

Sowing seeds of broccoli for seedlings is carried out 40-45 days before planting it in open ground. Optimal planting date - mid-March . Seedlings ready for planting in the ground to a permanent position in May month. By this time the plant should have 5-6 leaves. It is better not to wait until the seedlings outgrow, such plants produce small heads.

Brussels sprouts

Brussels sprouts, like other varieties, are grown in seedlings. Seeds for seedlings need to have time to sow no later than April 25 (in the central zone of the Russian Federation). Seedlings ready for planting in a permanent place should also have 5-6 leaves. A plant aged 40-50 days is planted in open ground at the end of May - at the very beginning of June.

Interestingly, Brussels sprouts are a biennial plant. In the first year it bears fruit, in the second year it produces seeds. Here's what happened when we accidentally left a stalk of Brussels sprouts hanging in the ground for the winter:

Cauliflower

Perhaps the most capricious variety of cabbage. Cauliflower is sensitive to soils, winds, low temperatures and is especially vulnerable in the early stages of seedling cultivation.

Time to sow cauliflower seeds:

  • Seeds are sown for seedlings on March 15-25, and seedlings are planted in the ground in late April-early May,
  • Seeds are sown in open ground from the first ten days of May to mid-June.

Seedlings in open ground planted at the age of 45 - 50 days.

Our harvest:

Kohlrabi cabbage

They are grown by seedlings and by sowing seeds directly into open ground, over several periods.

Seedlings are planted in 3 terms to extend fruiting:

  1. Seeds are sown in the middle - end of March, and at the end of April the seedlings will be ready for planting,
  2. The seeds are sown in early May, and then on June 10-12 the seedlings can be planted in a permanent place,
  3. In the last week of July - sowing seeds, at the end of August - planting seedlings.

Savoy cabbage

Time for sowing seeds for seedlings:

  • early ripening varieties: 2nd decade of March, they can be planted in several - until the end of May,
  • mid-season varieties must be planted no later than April 25 (under film or in a greenhouse),
  • other varieties are grown similarly to white cabbage.

Seedlings of this variety of cabbage are planted in a permanent place at the age of 35 - 45 days, when 4-5 leaves form on the plants.

Time frame for planting seedlings in the ground:

  • Early ripening varieties begin to be planted in the 1st decade of May, then mid-ripening varieties, and mid-late ripening varieties in the 2nd decade of May.

Chinese cabbage

Planted at several times, both by seedling method and by planting seeds in open ground:

  1. In the first ten days of April, seeds are sown, and after 3 days the first shoots appear. After 7 days they can be planted into pots. At the beginning of May, 30 days after planting, in the three-leaf phase, Chinese cabbage seedlings are ready for planting in a permanent place.
  2. At the end of summer, Chinese cabbage can be planted as a second crop in the vacated areas. The seeds are soaked and sown in July, then they are planted and young plants are planted in the garden at the beginning of August. If there is enough rain at the end of summer, you can expect a rich harvest 😉

Phew, as for the timing of planting cabbage, it seems that they figured it out. We hope the information was useful for you 😉 Successful sowing!

When starting the gardening season, every gardener plans what he will plant this year. Along with tomatoes and cucumbers, which are obligatory crops in Russian dachas, gardeners also allocate space on their plot for cabbage. It is a regular on the table, because it is used to prepare a wide variety of dishes - borscht, cabbage soup, and is also used to make summer salad and prepare it for the winter.

You won’t envy those gardeners who, at the end of the gardening season, are not pleased with the harvest of cabbage. However, these failures can be left in the past if you know the secrets of planting, which will help even novice gardeners get a good harvest.

How to get the harvest on time?

All cabbage varieties known today can be divided into three groups depending on their ripening time:

  • early;
  • average;
  • late.

Early varieties are divided into early ripening and ultra-early ripening. Medium varieties, in turn, are mid-early, mid-ripening and mid-late.

Early varieties

The first harvest can be obtained by growing ultra-early varieties. They usually reach the stage of technical maturity after 55-60 days, which corresponds to the end of April and the beginning of May. However, in order to obtain cabbage within the specified time frame, it must be grown using film covers.

The resulting fruits weigh on average about 0.8-1.2 kg. Such indicators are typical for first-generation foreign hybrids, with which many domestic summer residents are well familiar. These include varieties such as:

  • Surprise;
  • Chesema;
  • Pandion;
  • Ditmarscher Frewer.

If you do not have a great desire to get the first heads of cabbage before the onset of summer, then you should pay attention to early ripening varieties, which have a ripening period of 2 to 3 months. The most popular among this category of varieties were June and the F1 hybrids Kazachok, Start, Transfer, Farao. The fruits of this cabbage variety weigh no more than 2 kg.

Mid-early varieties

They are popular with those gardeners who plan to harvest cabbage from the second half of June to the second half of July. The most famous among them are varieties of domestic selection Number One, Gribovsky 147, Malachite. Among the foreign hybrids, it should be noted Atleta F1, Grenadier F1, Morris F1.

Mid-season varieties include cabbage varieties that have a longer growing season, which is 80 days. First of all, it is necessary to include the domestic variety Belorussky 455, forgotten by many gardeners, when grown it can produce fruits weighing up to 5 kg. In addition to it, the varieties Slava Gribovskaya 231, Slava 1305 and the hybrid SB-3 F1 deserve attention. Growing mid-season varieties is practiced through seedlings and sowing in open ground. Usually the first fruits are harvested by the end of July or beginning of August.

Late varieties

Mid-late cabbage varieties have a longer growing season, which is 105-125 days. The first heads of cabbage can be harvested no earlier than the first half of autumn. In order for this cabbage to please you with its quality and weight, the gardener must provide regular watering and use varieties and hybrids that are resistant to fungal diseases and heat.

An ideal option for growing in hot climates are the varieties Krasnodarskaya-1 and Judge 146. From their seeds you can obtain heads of cabbage with an average density of leaves and high consumer qualities. Also worthy of attention are the hybrids Satellite F1, Favorit F1 and Megaton F1, which are highly resistant to diseases.

Gardeners living in regions with long summers can also grow late-ripening varieties of cabbage. Heads of cabbage usually ripen at the end of September and the first ten days of October. With the seedling method of cultivation, the growing season for these varieties lasts 120-135 days. In the case of sowing seeds in open ground, it can be 150 days. Of the mid-late varieties, the most famous are Amager, Turkiz, Geneva F1, which are ideal for pickling and fermentation. If you need varieties for long-term storage, we recommend choosing Zimovka 1474, Albatros F1 and Lezhkiy F1.

Agricultural technology

One of the valuable qualities for which many gardeners love cabbage is cold resistance. The varieties offered in stores today have varying degrees of resistance to frost and adverse weather conditions. On average, for cabbage seeds to germinate, a temperature of at least +2 ° C is required. They enter the active growth phase when the air temperature rises to 18-20 ° C. In the case of sowing in open ground, these indicators will be slightly different:

  • for seeds the optimal temperature is 12-15 ° C;
  • the soil should be 2-3 degrees warmer.

Cabbage can grow well only in areas with sufficient light. She needs a long day of light, which should be at least 17-18 hours. If it is not possible to meet this condition, then it is necessary to use special auxiliary means - phytolamps. With a lack of light, cabbage seedlings will begin to stretch. When transplanting into open ground, it is recommended to select the most illuminated areas for it, located as far as possible from trees and shrubs.

Cabbage is an unpretentious crop and can grow well in any type of soil with the exception of light sandy soils. For planting cabbage, it is recommended to choose areas that are close to groundwater. The level of acidity has a significant impact on the yield of cabbage. This crop does well in swampy and acidic soils.

The most favorable for it is slightly acidic soil, in which the acidity level does not exceed 6 ph. If this condition is not met and the acidity is higher than the specified value, then liming is necessary. Keep in mind that for late varieties it is necessary to select more fertile areas, unlike middle and early ones. In addition, in order to get large heads of cabbage, you will have to add more organic matter and mineral fertilizers throughout the season.

It is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers not only for ordinary varieties, but also for hybrids. Considering that they respond well to such fertilizing, the dose of fertilizer can be increased by 45%. This is explained by the fact that plants absorb these fertilizers extremely unevenly. First, they actively absorb nitrogen, which they need to gain leaf mass, and then they begin to absorb phosphorus and potassium, without which it is impossible to obtain high-quality heads of cabbage. Also, to obtain a marketable fruit, cabbage also requires other substances - calcium, and among microelements - molybdenum, boron, manganese and copper.

As a result of applying mineral fertilizers, the quality indicators of cabbage can be significantly increased - keeping quality, resistance to fungal diseases and temperature changes.

Know, when to sow cabbage, of course, is important, but its productivity depends not only on this. Gardeners need to pay special attention to watering. Care must be taken to ensure that the soil does not dry out. Otherwise, the cabbage will have hard leaves and will not grow to the required size. It is recommended to water cabbage using the sprinkling method. In this way, you can stimulate the growth of leafy masses and get juicy vegetables. However, keep in mind that in the first weeks after transplanting seedlings into open ground, watering should be moderate. Otherwise, you will create high humidity, due to which the roots of young seedlings will begin to rot and the plants will die.

Preparing the beds

Another important question: when to prepare a site for planting cabbage. You need to start doing this in the fall. The soil must be thoroughly dug up and fertilized which need to be applied according to the scheme - for 1 square meter take 1.5 buckets of rotted manure, 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and complex fertilizers and one tablespoon of potassium.

In spring, the main activities will be loosening and removing weeds. After this, you can begin to make beds, which should be no more than 1 m wide. The planting method will depend on the ripening period of the selected variety:

  • early ripening ones are planted according to a 50 x 50 cm pattern;
  • mid-season - 60 x 60 cm;
  • late ripening - 70 x 70 cm.

In order to save space in narrow beds, many gardeners practice the method of planting seedlings in a checkerboard pattern.

To understand when to sow cabbage, you need to consider the variety. First, seedlings of early-ripening varieties are planted, and 14 days after that, mid-ripening cabbage can be planted. And only after a month can you plant late cabbage. After planting, the seedlings are watered with water in the amount of 0.5-1 liters per bush. This must be done every day. Two to three weeks after transplantation, the volume of water must be increased to 6-8 liters per square meter. At the same time, the frequency of watering is reduced, which can now be carried out every three to four days. On especially hot days, it is recommended to give the cabbage a refreshing shower, but this should be done during the most comfortable period for the plants - in the morning or evening.

The main rule that must be followed throughout the season is that watering should be regular and moderate. If you water cabbage from time to time, then early and late varieties will not form a strong root system, and without this, heads of cabbage will not be able to set.

Planting in open ground

For many gardeners, a big problem is growing cabbage through seedlings. To make this work easier, a method of sowing seeds in open ground can be proposed. It is best to do this in early May. It is necessary to prepare narrow beds in advance, loosen them and remove all weeds. Try to make the holes even and uniform. Glass bottles can help you with this, with which you can easily make shallow holes.

After this, you need to take half a pack of baking soda, add one teaspoon of ground hot pepper to it. This mixture will help protect young seedlings from fungal diseases, and in addition to this, reduce the likelihood of the cabbage flea beetle infecting the crop.

Before planting cabbage in the ground, you need to put half a teaspoon of the prepared mixture in each hole, and then plant 3-4 seeds there. So many seeds are planted because the germination rate of cabbage is not one hundred percent. Then pour a tablespoon of humus or good fertile soil on top of the seeds. Next we need a plastic bottle, the bottom of which needs to be cut off and put on the hole.

From the sides it is necessary sprinkle with a small amount of soil so that the plastic does not fall from the wind. After this, you can tighten the plug on it. Such a mini-greenhouse will create optimal conditions for the seedlings, in which they will remain until the time comes to transplant them to a permanent place. After this, you can gradually open the bottle slightly, and then completely remove it.

After planting late cabbage in the ground caring for seedlings is very easy- every time you have to unscrew the bottle and water the seedlings through the neck. If you decide to sow the seeds in one row, then so as not to waste free space in the aisles, you can sow dill or lettuce there. With such neighbors, cabbage will feel very good, because they will help protect it from damage by insect pests.

Conclusion

Grow cabbage in open ground is no more difficult than any other crop. Experienced gardeners know many secrets that help them get a good harvest of this vegetable every year. The main thing you should know is - cabbage does not tolerate dry soil. Therefore, you must provide it with regular watering until its ovaries form. Naturally, you must know when it is better to sow seeds in order to get heads of cabbage on time.

Much also depends on the correct choice of variety. If your region has a short summer, then you should not choose late-ripening varieties. Try to take this into account when you go to the store to buy seeds.

This is one of the most popular, which can be found in almost every garden, but not everyone manages to get a rich and high-quality harvest. In this article we will get acquainted with proper cultivation with the rules of planting and caring for it in the open ground.

Brief description and best varieties

This is a biennial vegetable belonging to the cruciferous plant family. Its thick greenish leaves adhere closely to each other and form a spherical head of cabbage. contains many useful minerals and vitamins.

Today, a huge number of different varieties of this vegetable are grown in our country, but I would like to note the following varieties: “Avak F1”, “Dita”, “Olympus”, “Sonya F1”, “Delta”, “Meridor F1”, “Snow White” , "The Kitano Line".

Planting seeds for seedlings

To get strong and healthy, you need to know how to choose good seeds and how to sow them correctly.

Seed selection and substrate preparation

The seeds you choose will determine what kind of harvest you get. When choosing seeds for seedlings, you need to decide what you need it for - for fresh summer salads or late for a long winter one: this is the main selection criterion.

To get a good harvest, it is important to prepare the correct substrate for future seedlings. A universal substrate can be purchased in a store or made yourself: to do this, you need to mix equal parts of turf soil and then add one glass per 10 kg of soil mixture. Ash serves as a source of necessary elements and as a prophylactic against.

Sowing

Before sowing seeds, they should harden, to increase resistance to To do this, the seeds are first heated for 15 minutes in warm water to 55 ° C, and then immersed in cold water for 4 minutes.

After hardening, the seeds need to be immersed for a couple of hours - this could be something else. Some varieties cannot be wetted before sowing, so be sure to read the instructions on the package.

When the seeds are ready, they need to be placed in the soil to a depth of 1-1.5 cm and watered once - the next watering is carried out after the sprouts appear. To retain moisture, the soil must be covered with film. Seeds should be stored until germination at a temperature from +18°C to +22°C.

Seedling care

Seeds begin to germinate on average in 5 days. After this, it is necessary to remove the film coating and lower the temperature to +5-10°C. After the first full leaf appears, the temperature should be increased to +15-18°C during the daytime and +5-10°C at night. During this period, seedlings need in ventilation, but you need to make sure that there are no drafts that have a detrimental effect on the plant.

How to water

The seedlings need to be watered in the evening: if the weather is cloudy outside, then watering is carried out every 5 days; if the heat lasts for a long time, then you need to water it every 2 days. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil and hill up the seedlings.

Important!The mulch layer should not be less than 5 cm thick.

Top dressing

A week and a half after transplanting into open ground, white cabbage seedlings need to be fertilized. For this, a mixture with 2 g of fertilizer based on, 3 g, 3 g is suitable - dissolve all this in a liter of water: this amount can be enough for 50 seedlings. The second feeding is carried out after 12-14 days. The ingredients are the same, but only their dosage is doubled.

If you do not have the opportunity to prepare such a mixture yourself, then you can simply purchase some for cabbage at a farm store. When the leaves begin to actively grow, it is recommended to fertilize the plant by preparing 10 g of water per bucket: water with this solution should be at the rate of 2 liters per seedling.

The following is carried out when forming a head of cabbage - for this you will need:

  • – 5 g;
  • double – 6 g;
  • – 9 g
  • mix all this in 15 liters of water (water with the same calculation as in the previous one).

Methods of protection against diseases and pests

Like many other vegetables, it is susceptible to diseases. In order to avoid having to treat vegetables with harmful poisons, it is best to carry out prevention.

Place in crop rotation

The best predecessors for cabbage are the layer and turnover of the layer of perennial grasses, a mixture of annual fodder grasses for silage and green manure, cucumber, early potatoes, onions, legumes. For medium and late varieties - a layer of clover, tomato, beets, carrots.

In a crop rotation, cabbage is placed as the first or second crop after the application of organic fertilizers.

It is impossible to grow cabbage after cabbage and other representatives of Cabbage / radish, turnip, rutabaga /, as they are affected by the same pests and diseases.

On such soils, cabbage can be returned to its original place not earlier than after 3-4 years, and on soils infected with clubroot, after 4-5 years.

Late cabbage can be cultivated in the central part of the floodplain, as it is quickly freed from hollow water, which makes it possible to plant seedlings of late-ripening varieties earlier.

Crop rotations:

1) Early cabbage

3) Late cabbage

4) Table root vegetables

1) Early cabbage

4) Late cabbage

5) Table root vegetables

Soil preparation

Under medium and late-ripening varieties of cabbage, after predecessors that release the soil early, semi-fallow autumn processing is carried out. After harvesting the predecessor crop in late autumn, in order to grind plant residues and destroy a significant number of pests, disking and deep autumn plowing are carried out. Plant residues and harmful microflora with the help of autumn plowing with a plow with a skimmer close up to a depth of 25-30 cm.

The most important activity when growing cabbage is timely autumn plowing. Deep plowing promotes better development of the root system. A small arable layer is deepened with plows with subsoilers. The earlier the autumn plowing is carried out, the higher the cabbage yield. Plowing is carried out with a PLN-4-35 plow at 25-30 cm.

Spring tillage h It involves cover harrowing and cultivation with the simultaneous application of mineral fertilizers and herbicides. In areas of low relief with close groundwater levels, ridges or ridges are cut in the fall so as not to be late with planting seedlings in the spring.

Fertilizer is one of the decisive conditions for obtaining a high cabbage yield. On highly fertile floodplains, drained peatlands, areas of low relief, a high yield of cabbage can be obtained by applying mineral fertilizers alone. On less fertile soils, combined application of organic and mineral fertilizers is necessary.

Calculation of specific fertilizers for the planned harvest

The planned yield is 100 t/ha, the soil is southern chernozem, the depth of the arable layer is 30 cm, the bulk density of the soil is 1.2 g/cm 3

Weight of topsoil:

30×1.2=3600t/ha.

Over the past 5 years, the average cabbage yield on the farm was 90t/ha. The difference between the planned and average harvest is 10t/ha. Fertilizer application is calculated based on this difference.

Early cabbage per 1 ton of harvest takes out the following amount of nutrients: N - 3.5 P - 0.8 K - 3.6

Then with a harvest of 10t it will be: N – 35 P –8 K – 36

On average, from mineral fertilizers in the first year of application, plants use (in%):

Taking into account the utilization rates, the following must be added to the soil:

N=35×100/60=58.3kg

Р=8×100/20=40kg

K=36×100/70=51.4kg

In addition to minerals, humus is added, so the doses of mineral fertilizers are reduced.

Humus contains: N – 0.98 P – 0.58 K – 0.9

When introducing 15 tons of humus into the soil, the following is applied: N - 147 kg P - 87 kg K - 135 kg.

On average, plants use organic fertilizers in the first year (in%): N – 25 P – 40 K – 70.

This means that the plants receive:

N=147×25/100=36.75kg

Р=87×40/100=34.8kg

K=137×70/100=94.5kg

It is necessary to reduce the doses of mineral fertilizers by these values. Then with mineral fertilizers it will be necessary to make:

K=51.4-94=(do not add potassium).

Selection of varieties

For cultivation using intensive technology, domestic varieties of different early ripening are used: hybrid SB3 (MSHA), Kharkovskaya Zimnaya, Stolichnaya, Podarok, Amager 611. They are resistant to head cracking, lodging, ripen smoothly and are suitable for one-time machine harvesting.

Hybrid Kolobok

Productivity - up to 10 kg/sq.m. For open ground. It is very demanding on soil fertility and does not tolerate moisture deficiency. Ripening time: late ripening, technical ripeness of heads of cabbage occurs 150 days after emergence. Fruit: heads of cabbage are round, medium-sized, high density, with a short inner stalk, weighing 2-3 kg. It is characterized by a high content of sugars, ascorbic acid, lack of bitterness, and excellent taste. The heads of cabbage are very even. Relatively resistant to vascular and mucous bacteriosis, Fusarium wilt, gray and white rot. Resistant to cracking. For fresh consumption after long-term storage. Kolobok F1 is very productive, the heads of cabbage are aligned in shape and size, with excellent taste. Thanks to all these properties, the hybrid is ideal for growing both for own consumption and for the purpose of selling products in the fall. The disease resistance of the Gingerbread F1 hybrid will allow you to avoid additional treatments with chemicals and get a high yield. The great value of this hybrid is the excellent taste of fresh produce, the absence of bitterness and the possibility of storing heads of cabbage for several months without loss of quality.

The need for seed material, preparing seeds for sowing

Calculation of the need for seed material

Seeding rate – 0.3 kg/ha.

Seeding rate for 5 hectares - 5×0.3=1.5kg

Preparing seeds for sowing.

Before sowing, for disinfection from bacterial and viral infections, the seeds are heated in hot water at a temperature of 50 ° C for 20 minutes, after which they are immediately cooled (for 3-5 minutes) in cold boiled water. Then the seeds can be soaked in growth stimulants (Gumat, Silk, Epin, etc.) for several hours (see instructions).

Agricultural technology for growing seedlings

As a rule, cabbage seedlings are grown in spring film greenhouses, hotbeds or seedlings in winter greenhouses.

The approximate timing of sowing late cabbage is late March - early April.

Seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm and covered with film or newspapers on top to retain moisture in the top layer of soil. Shoots appear early - after 4-5 days, after which the film and newspapers are immediately removed.

After sowing, until germination, the temperature is maintained at +20 °C. After the emergence of seedlings, the temperature in the greenhouse is reduced to +6...+10 °C (both day and night), since this moment is critical and the plant switches from feeding from the seed supply to autotrophic nutrition. At the same time, seedlings under conditions of elevated temperatures, and especially with a lack of light, become very elongated and lie down. The duration of the period with low temperature is 4-7 days - until the formation of the first true leaf.

Then the temperature is raised:

up to +14…+18 °С on sunny days,

12…+16 °С on cloudy days,

at night +6…+10 °С.

Relative air humidity - 60-70%. When growing seedlings, there must be strong ventilation.

Once a week, seedlings are watered with water with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (3 g per 10 l).

Planting seedlings

Middle and late varieties are usually harvested in one go. For fresh sale, they are cut down, leaving 1-2 covering leaves. For pickling or winter storage, heads of cabbage are harvested with 2-3 covering, loosely adjacent leaves. The length of the outer stump should not exceed 3cm.

The yield of late cabbage is from 500-600 to 1000 c.

Plant care

The main task of care is the uninterrupted provision of food and water through the use of fertilizing, watering, loosening the soil after each watering or precipitation, removing weeds, and protecting plants from pests and diseases.

Inter-row cultivation begins on the 2-5th day, depending on soil conditions and the condition of the seedlings. The first loosening is carried out leaving the smallest protective zone. During subsequent treatments, the protective zone is increased, as the cabbage roots grow towards the row spacing. Due to the peculiarities of the development of the root system, it is better to do the first treatment deeper than subsequent ones.

Herbicides are used to control weeds. Before planting seedlings, treflan is used: it is incorporated into the soil at a dose of 1-1.3 kg per 1 hectare in a.m. To apply herbicides, hose sprayers are used.

To improve the development of the root system, plants are hilled, which not only enhances root nutrition, but also gives them stability. Adventitious roots are formed only when hilling is carried out with moist, loose soil and at a younger age of plants. Therefore, they try to carry out the first loosening 20-25 days after planting seedlings for early varieties, 25-30 days for middle and late varieties. The second hilling is carried out 15-20 days after the first.

When organizing irrigation of late cabbage, advantages are given to the furrow irrigation method. The use of short- and medium-jet machines and units for sprinkling reduces the yield and increases energy costs for operating tractors and agricultural machines.

For irrigation in the presence of high-performance sprinkler systems DDA-100MA, we can recommend finely dispersed sprinkling when growing late cabbage in combination with 1-2 vegetation irrigations at a rate of 700-800 m 3 /ha. This irrigation regime ensures a head yield of 60-80 t/ha with economical consumption of irrigation water per unit of production. For fine sprinkling, additional equipment installed on a sprinkler or machine is used. It is prescribed when the total area of ​​leaves begins to exceed the surface of the soil under the plants and leaves begin to close in the rows. Such irrigation is carried out on clear, dry, partly cloudy days at air temperatures above +20...+2tC, usually from 10 to 18 hours with an interval of 1 hour. Water consumption per unit pass is 480-800 l/ha. Fine sprinkling has a positive effect on the microclimate of the ground layer of air. The highest increase in yield is obtained against the background of pre-irrigation soil moisture of 60% NV.

Cabbage responds positively to top dressing. Top dressing is applied without waiting for the appearance of sharp signs of plant starvation. The first feeding is carried out shortly after planting the seedlings, the second is given before the head of cabbage begins to form.

Approximate fertilizer rates for feeding cabbage are as follows: first - 35:20:20, second - 40:0:40 /nitrogen: phosphorus: potassium/.

Protecting plants from pests and diseases

More than 50 species of harmful insects and a large number of diseases have been identified in plantings of white cabbage and other plants of the cabbage family. Considerable damage to the cabbage crop is caused by insects: cabbage and turnip whites, cabbage moths, cabbage cutworms, as well as cabbage fleas, clones, aphids, flies and turnip sawflies; diseases - clubroot, mucous and vascular bacteriosis, fusarium, downy mildew, black spot, etc.

When protecting plants from cabbage aphids, it is necessary to apply a set of preventive measures. Of the technological methods, the following are especially important: collecting and destroying stumps after harvesting cabbage, deep autumn plowing or digging up the area, destroying weeds of the cabbage family in the adjacent area; spatial isolation of testes from edible cabbage. To attract beneficial insects to protect against cabbage aphids, it is necessary to place nectar-bearing umbrella plants next to the cabbage - seed plants of carrots, parsley, celery, coriander, anise, fennel or dill.

Chemical protection against aphids: actellik, 50% e. (5 g per 10 m2), bi-58 new, 40% e.g. (5-10 g per 10 m2), decis, 2.5% ke. (3 g per 10 m2), zolon, 35% ae. (16-20 g per 10 m2). The frequency of treatments is no more than 2, the waiting period after treatment is 20-25 days.

Destruction of weeds, top dressing and timely watering help protect plants from cabbage fleas. With a strong harmfulness of cabbage fleas, cabbage plantings are treated with bazudin, 60% a.e. at the rate of 10 g of the drug per 10 m 2, as well as Volaton 500, 50% e.g. - 10-15 g per 10 m2.

Cabbage bugs. Several types of cabbage bugs are harmful, of which rapeseed and decorated (cabbage) are the most common. Early planting of seedlings, fertilization, fertilizing, loosening the soil increase the resistance of plants to damage by bedbugs. In case of massive damage, cabbage plants are sprayed with Actellik, 50% e.g. with a drug consumption of 5 g per 10 m 2.

Stem cabbage secretive proboscis. Protective measures. Destruction of weeds and damaged leaves and plants. Rejection of damaged seedlings. Row spacing loosening and deep plowing or digging of the soil in autumn. When beetles appear en masse at the beginning of oviposition, spray cabbage with Volatone 500, 50% a.e. with the consumption of the drug 6-10 g per 10 m 2 .

Among cabbage pests that cause large crop losses, the most dangerous are lepidoptera, which cause damage during the growing season. Leaf-eating caterpillars of cabbage and turnip moths, cabbage moths, and cabbage cutworms significantly reduce the yield and deteriorate its quality.

The complex of measures to protect against leaf-eating pests of cabbage includes preventive technological methods and elements, mechanical destruction, phytotherapeutic, chemical and biological preparations, as well as entomophages. In the fall, be sure to destroy post-harvest residues of the predecessor and weeds of the cabbage family around the site. Weeds and remains of cultivated plants are pest reservoirs; pupae overwinter on them. It is necessary to carefully follow the cultivation technology, starting with basic tillage, since healthy and strong plants suffer less from pests.

The main fungal disease of cabbage seedlings is the blackleg. Hydrothermal treatment of seeds before sowing reduces disease damage to plants. When blackleg appears, the lesions are watered with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate (5 g per 10 l of water), as well as a solution of potassium permanganate (3-5 g per 10 l of water). Consumption rate - 1 liter per 1 m2.

Clubroot fungal disease is widespread. In order to protect plants from this disease, before planting seedlings, freshly slaked lime is added to the holes at the rate of 35-40 g or 0.5 l of lime milk with a concentration of 8% (800 g per 10 l of water), mixing the lime with the soil. After harvesting the cabbage, add 1-2 g per 10 m2 of dry lime to the soil. During the growing season, after watering and fertilizing, cabbage is hilled, which promotes the formation of additional roots and improves plant development.

Other cabbage diseases include dry rot, or fomoz, downy mildew, alternaria (black spot), fusarium wilt, mosaic, gray rot (botrytiosis), white rot (sclerotinia), rhizoctonia, mucous bacteriosis, spot necrosis, fogginess, dry layers in heads of cabbage, etc. To protect against diseases, technological methods and approved fungicides are used.

Harvest

The harvesting period for late-ripening cabbage varieties in the central non-chernozem zone usually occurs in the second half of September.

Middle and late varieties are usually harvested in one go. For fresh sale, they are cut down, leaving 1-2 covering leaves. For pickling or winter storage, heads of cabbage are harvested with 2-3 covering, loosely adjacent leaves.

The length of the outer stump should not exceed 3 cm.

Late cabbage is harvested in dry weather, when the air temperature during the day drops to +4...+7°C, and at night it stays around zero. The air gaps between the leaves of the head of cabbage give the cabbage resistance to short-term exposure to negative temperatures. Heads of late-ripening varieties can withstand freezing down to -5...-6°C while standing. However, cut heads of cabbage are less resistant to low temperatures, since freezing occurs faster along the exposed tissue of the stump. For pickling, take heads of cabbage that have been caught in a light frost, but not below -3...-4°C. High temperatures lead to cracking of heads.

For long-term fresh storage, cabbage is harvested as late as possible, when, as a result of lower temperatures, the intensity of physiological processes sharply decreases. However, heads of cabbage are harvested so that they do not freeze. Frozen heads of cabbage are almost never stored, and when fermented they produce low-quality products. A slight superficial freezing does not harm the cabbage, but it should be removed after thawing on the root.

For one-time harvesting of cabbage of mid- and late-ripening varieties, single-row combines MSK-1, E-800 are used, double-row combines are used - MKP-2, UKM-2, MKU-2

Labor productivity from the use of platforms and conveyors increases by 2-2.5 times. The lowest labor costs are achieved when using wide-cut conveyors with side discharge. In their absence, in addition to the POU-2 and PNSSH-12 platforms, they use a container carrier from the PT-3.5 tomato harvesting machine system, a T-16M self-propelled chassis and other vehicles that facilitate the removal of products from the site.

Cabbage (lat. Brassica)– a genus of plants in the Brassicaceae (Cruciferae) family, which includes such well-known cultivated plants as cabbage, turnips, radishes, turnips, rutabaga and mustard. About 50 species of the genus are known, distributed in Central Europe, the Mediterranean, East and Central Asia. In America, only species exported from Europe grow. Cabbage was grown for food by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans; it began to feed humanity 4,000 years ago. Cabbage was brought to our territory from Western Europe by merchants during the heyday of Kievan Rus - in the 13th century, and by the 18th century it had already become so firmly established in Russian life that a tradition was formed after the Orthodox holiday

Exaltation, which is celebrated on September 27, collectively prepared cabbage for the winter - it was chopped and salted, and at the same time, for two weeks, cheerful folk games were held, which were called kasputniki. In the 19th century, the prominent Russian vegetable grower Rytov was able to name 22 varieties of cabbage.

Planting and caring for cabbage

  • Landing: sowing of seeds of early varieties for seedlings is carried out from the beginning of March until the third ten days of the month, mid-season varieties - during the month from March 25, late varieties - from the beginning of April until the third ten days of the month. Transplanting seedlings into open ground - after 45-50 days.
  • Lighting: bright sun from morning to evening.
  • The soil: for early honeycombs – loamy and sandy, for mid-season and late honeycombs – loam and clay. Hydrogen index 6.0-7.0 pH.
  • Predecessors: It is not advisable to grow after cruciferous crops.
  • Watering: After planting in the ground, the seedlings are watered every evening for a week. Subsequently, watering is carried out in the evening or in cloudy weather once every 5-7 days, and in hot weather and drought - every 2-3 days.
  • Hilling: three weeks after planting, then another 10 days.
  • Mulching: A layer of peat mulch up to 5 cm thick is recommended.
  • Feeding: three feedings with full mineral fertilizer during the seedling period, then with ammonium nitrate when the leaves begin to grow, the last one at the moment when the leaves begin to curl into a head of cabbage.
  • Reproduction: seedlings from seeds.
  • Pests: aphids, caterpillars, slugs and snails, cruciferous bugs and flea beetles, cabbage leaf beetles and secretive proboscis.
  • Diseases: clubroot, blackleg, downy mildew, fusarium, rhizoctonia, white and gray rot.

Read more about growing cabbage below.

Agriculture cabbage (lat. Brassica oleracea)- a biennial plant with a tall leafy stem, bare gray or bluish-green leaves. The lower fleshy, large, petiolate, lyre-pinnately dissected leaves, adjacent to each other, form a rosette - a head of cabbage around the stem, the upper leaves are oblong, sessile. Large flowers form a multi-flowered raceme. Cabbage seeds are also large, dark brown, spherical, about 2 mm long.

Cabbage contains mineral salts of calcium, potassium, sulfur and phosphorus, fiber, enzymes, phytoncides, fats, vitamins A, B1, B6, K, C, P, U and others. According to some scientists, cabbage comes from the Colchis lowland, where similar plants, called “kezhera” by local residents, still grow in variety. The cabbage species includes such well-known varieties as white and red cabbage, as well as cauliflower, savoy, Brussels sprouts, Portuguese, kohlrabi, broccoli, Chinese, Chinese and kale.

Sowing cabbage seeds

The quality of cabbage primarily depends on the seed, so be responsible when purchasing seeds and before growing cabbage seedlings, think about why and when you want to get it - do you need an early vegetable with delicate leaves for salads or strong, dense heads of cabbage? for winter storage and salting. The choice of variety and sowing time will depend on the intended purpose of the cabbage you grow.

Widely cultivated by amateur gardeners, white cabbage, without which no borscht is complete, comes in early varieties that are suitable only for eating in the summer, mid-season varieties that can be eaten fresh in the summer or can be salted for the winter, and late varieties that more than all others are suitable for long-term storage.

Sowing of early varieties of cabbage for seedlings is carried out from the first days of March to the twentieth of the month, seeds of mid-season varieties are sown from March 25 to April 25, and late cabbage is sown from the beginning of April to the third decade of the month. From the moment of sowing to planting seedlings in open ground, usually 45-50 days pass.

If you have decided on your desires and purchased the seeds of the desired varieties, it’s time to think about making soil for seedlings. Professionals recommend preparing the soil mixture in the fall so that you don’t have to extract the ingredients from under the snow in winter. Mix one part each of humus and turf soil, add ash at the rate of 1 tablespoon per kilogram of soil and mix the composition well. The ash will act as an antiseptic and a source of macro- and microelements, preventing the appearance of black leg on cabbage seedlings.

You can prepare a mixture of a different composition, based on peat, for example - the main thing is that it is fertile and breathable. Never use garden soil from a plot where cruciferous crops were grown to grow seedlings, as it is likely that it contains pathogens that can affect the seedlings.

Growing cabbage begins with heating the seeds for 20 minutes in water at a temperature of about 50 ºC, after which they are immersed in cold water for 5 minutes to increase the immunity of the seed to fungal diseases. Then the seeds are immersed for several hours in a solution of a growth stimulant - Humate, Epin, Silk, etc. However, there are varieties whose seeds cannot be wetted - carefully read the instructions attached to the bag of seeds.

Water the soil generously before sowing and do not moisten it further until germination. The seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm, then the container is covered with film or paper on top so that moisture from the top layer of soil does not evaporate, and the crops are kept at a temperature of 20 ºC.

Growing cabbage seedlings

Shoots appear already on the 4-5th day, after which the film or paper is removed, the temperature is lowered to 6-10 ºC and the seedlings are kept in these conditions until their first true leaf appears. To do this, it is best to place the container with seedlings on a glassed-in loggia, and usually a week is enough to achieve the expected result. After the leaf appears, the temperature on sunny days is increased to 14-18 ºC, on cloudy days it should be within 14-16 ºC, and at night – 6-10 ºC.

Caring for cabbage seedlings at this stage provides the plants with access to fresh air, but the seedlings must be protected from drafts. In addition, seedlings need additional illumination with a fluorescent or phytolamp: their daylight hours should be at least 12-15 hours a day.

Do not allow the soil to dry out or become waterlogged. – This can be avoided by regularly loosening the soil after watering. A week after the emergence of seedlings, the soil is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 3 g of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water, or a weak solution of copper sulfate.

Picking seedlings

One and a half to two weeks after the emergence of seedlings and the formation of the first true leaf, the plants dive, providing the seedlings with a large feeding area. An hour before planting the cabbage, the soil with the seedlings is watered abundantly, then each seedling is removed along with a lump of earth and, having shortened its root by a third of its length, it is planted in an individual cup (preferably peat-humus), buried down to the cotyledon leaves.

Picking can be avoided if the initial sowing of cabbage seeds is carried out in individual containers, when transplanting seedlings into open ground from personal pots, the root system of the seedlings is not so damaged, and by the time the seedlings are planted in the garden bed, it will have already developed to a decent size. If you grow seedlings in peat-humus pots, then you can plant the seedlings in the ground directly in them.

Planting cabbage in the ground is preceded by two weeks of hardening, the purpose of which is to prepare the seedlings for development in new conditions. The first two days in a room with seedlings, open the window for 3-4 hours, providing protection for the seedlings from drafts. Then, over the course of several days, the seedlings are taken out for an hour or two on a balcony or loggia under the sun’s rays, from direct exposure of which the seedlings must first be covered with gauze.

After a week, reduce watering, take the seedlings to the balcony and keep them there until planting in the ground.

Planting cabbage in open ground

When to plant cabbage in the ground

Planting early cabbage seedlings in open ground is carried out when the seedlings develop 5-7 leaves, and the seedlings reach a height of 12-20 cm. The parameters for planting mid-season and late cabbage seedlings in open ground are as follows: the presence of 4-6 leaves at the height of the seedlings is 15-20 cm. Typically, seedlings of early varieties achieve such results by the beginning of May, late varieties - from mid to late May, and mid-season varieties - from late May to mid-June.

Soil for cabbage

Before planting cabbage, you need to prepare a plot for it. It should be illuminated by the sun from morning to evening. As for the soil, loam and sandy soil are most suitable for early varieties of cabbage, while loam or clay soil is optimal for middle and late varieties. The hydrogen index on sandy soils should be ± 6.0, and on clay-sandy or clayey soils - ± 7.0. Acidic soils are unsuitable for cultivating cabbage.

This crop cannot be grown in areas infected with bacteriosis for eight years. It is also undesirable to plant cabbage where other cabbage crops were recently grown - turnips, radishes, turnips, mustard, rutabaga or cabbage. Before the area where these crops grew can be used for cabbage, at least three years must pass.

The soil in the area for cabbage should be prepared in advance, from the first days of autumn preceding planting: in dry weather, carefully dig the area to the depth of a spade bayonet, but do not try to level the surface, because the steeper the unevenness, the more moisture it can absorb over the winter and spring. Earth.

After the snow melts, the so-called “moisture sealing” is carried out - the soil surface is leveled with a rake to prevent water from evaporating too quickly from the soil. Very soon, weeds will come out of the ground, which must be removed immediately.

How to plant cabbage in open ground

The scheme for planting seedlings in open ground is approximately as follows:

  • 30x40 for hybrid and early varieties, 50x60 for mid-season and 60x70 for late varieties of white and red cabbage;
  • 30x40 for kohlrabi;
  • 25x50 for cauliflower;
  • 60-70 for Brussels sprouts;
  • 40x60 for Savoy;
  • 30x50 for broccoli.

Try not to overcrowd the beds, as cabbage needs a lot of light and space.

Make holes in the soil slightly larger than the root system of seedlings with an earthen ball or peat-humus pot. Place a handful of sand and peat, two handfuls of humus and 50 g of wood ash in each hole, add half a teaspoon of nitrophoska, mix the additives thoroughly and water generously. An earthen ball with the root system of the seedling is dipped directly into this slurry, sprinkled with damp soil, pressed lightly and dry soil is added on top. Seedlings that are too elongated are planted so that the first pair of leaves is level with the surface of the site.

Cabbage care

How to grow cabbage

At first, carefully monitor the planted seedlings in order to put the fallen seedlings back in place in time. If weather forecasters predict sunny days, shade the seedlings from the sun for a while with newspapers or non-woven material. For a week, water the seedlings every evening from a watering can with a divider; after this period, if night frosts are not expected, the cover can be removed. Further care of seedlings in open ground consists of watering, loosening the soil, weeding the area, regular feeding and treating cabbage from pests and diseases. Three weeks after planting, the cabbage is earthed up; after another 10 days, the earthing procedure is repeated.

Watering cabbage

Growing cabbage in open ground will require you to strictly adhere to the watering regime, since the plant needs a lot of moisture. How to water cabbage already planted in open ground? Watering is carried out in the evening; on cloudy days, a gap of 5-6 days is sufficient between heavy waterings; in hot weather, watering will have to be done every 2-3 days. After watering, loosen the soil in the area while hilling up the cabbage. Professionals recommend using a 5 cm thick mulching layer of peat - it retains moisture in the soil longer and at the same time serves as food for developing plants.

Cabbage dressing

7-9 days after picking the seedlings, it is necessary to add first feeding, consisting of 2 g of potassium fertilizer, 4 g of superphosphate and 2 g of ammonium nitrate, dissolved in 1 liter of water - this amount should be enough to fertilize 50-60 seedlings. To avoid burns, fertilize cabbage using pre-watered soil.

Second fertilizing is applied two weeks later and consists of twice the amount of the same fertilizer dissolved in the same amount of water. If the seedlings are slightly yellowed, feed them with a liquid solution of fermented manure at a rate of 1:10.

Third, The so-called hardening fertilizer is applied two days before planting seedlings in open ground, and it consists of 3 g of ammonium nitrate, 8 g of potassium fertilizer and 5 g of superphosphate dissolved in a liter of water. A high concentration of potassium fertilizers promotes the survival of seedlings in open ground. If you do not have enough time to prepare a nutrient mixture, use ready-made liquid complex fertilizer Kemira Lux.

If you fed cabbage in the seedling stage, its development promises to be fast and intense, but after planting in open ground, feeding the cabbage does not stop. How to fertilize cabbage when its leaves begin to grow? It is best to add a solution of 10 g of ammonium nitrate in 10 liters of water to the soil - this dose is calculated for 5-6 plants. When the leaves begin to form into a head of cabbage, carry out a second feeding with a solution of 4 g of urea, 5 g of double superphosphate and 8 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water from the same calculation.

cabbage processing

The first time after planting in the ground, seedlings are dusted with ash with the addition of tobacco dust - this measure will protect young plants from slugs and fleas. Cabbage is a food product, so using pesticides to treat it against pests and diseases is extremely undesirable and unwise.

How to process cabbage to destroy its enemies and at the same time not poison the product we are going to eat? There are many ways to protect garden crops from such scourges as the invasion of aphids, caterpillars, pests of larvae and gastropods - snails and slugs.

Aphids and caterpillars can be destroyed by spraying with the following infusion: 2 kg of tomato tops are poured with 5 liters of water, left for 3-4 hours, then boiled for 3 hours, allowed to cool, filtered and diluted with water 1:2. To ensure that the infusion “sticks” to the leaves and does not flow onto the ground, add 20-30 g of grated tar soap to it. An infusion of onion peels can be used in the fight against aphids and caterpillars: pour a liter jar of onion peels with two liters of boiling water and leave for two days, then filter, add another 2 liters of water and a tablespoon of liquid soap or dishwashing detergent.

To combat the larvae of the May beetle, armyworm or cabbage fly, ants are attracted to the site by burying a jar of honey or jam diluted with water. Attracted by the sweet, black ants will also eat the larvae.

A preventive measure in the fight against harmful insects can be considered by placing marigolds, mint, sage, cilantro, basil, rosemary and other herbs in the area with cabbage and around it. The tart aroma will repel aphids, butterflies, slugs, fleas and attract their eternal enemies to fight them - ladybugs, lacewings, beetles and others.

Diseases of cabbage

Some cabbage diseases can spread so quickly that a slight delay on your part can result in the loss of the entire crop. We will tell you why cabbage is sick, as well as how to treat cabbage to save it from death. One of the most dangerous plant diseases is quila- a common fungal disease that affects early varieties of white cabbage and cauliflower even at the seedling stage: growths form on the roots of the seedlings, disrupting the nutrition of young plants, causing the seedlings to lag behind in development - they do not even form an ovary. Remove diseased plants from the area along with a lump of earth, and sprinkle the place where they grew with lime.

It is not yet possible to grow cabbage in this place, but other plants can grow without any risk, since clubroot only affects cruciferous plants.

A common occurrence is cabbage being damaged at the seedling stage or already in the garden plot by blackleg, a fungal disease of the root collar at the base of the stem. These parts of the seedling turn black, become thinner, rot, the plant slows down and dies. Such seedlings are not planted in the ground - they will die in any case. The soil in the area with cabbage killed by blackleg needs to be replaced, because it is unsuitable for growing cabbage. To prevent the disease, seeds are treated with granosan before planting in accordance with the instructions; to treat 100 seeds, approximately 0.4 g of the drug is needed, and fifty percent Tiram (TMTD) is added to the soil at the rate of 50 g per m².

Sometimes cabbage suffers from downy mildew - downy mildew. Typically, pathogens are found in seeds, which is why pre-sowing treatment is so important. The disease appears in wet weather on the outer leaves of cabbage as faint red-yellow spots. As a result of the development of the disease, the leaves turn yellow and die. As a preventive measure, seed treatment with Tiram or Planriz is used before planting. Hydrothermal treatment also gives good results - soaking the seeds in hot water (about 50 ºC) for 20-25 minutes.

If preventive measures were not taken, or they did not help, you will have to resort to treating the cabbage with garlic infusion: add 75 g of finely chopped garlic to 10 liters of water, leave for 12 hours, then bring the infusion to a boil, let it cool and spray the plants. If this measure does not produce results, treat the cabbage with a two to three percent solution of Fitosporin-M. If necessary, treatment can be repeated after two to three weeks. But keep in mind that cabbage can be treated with a fungicide only before the head is set, otherwise there is a danger of toxic chemicals accumulating in the leaves.

White and gray rot also cause gardeners a lot of trouble. White rot develops under conditions of a combination of low temperature and high air humidity and is manifested by mucus on the outer leaves of cabbage, between which a cotton-like white mycelium with black sclerotia ranging in size from one millimeter to three centimeters is formed. A head of cabbage affected by white rot rots in storage, infecting neighboring forks.

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