How to distribute the planting of vegetables in the garden. The layout of the arrangement of a small suburban area. Main season - late spring and summer

The weather is getting better, the sun is shining brighter, and under its gentle rays, not only fragile green leaves appear, but also thoughts about future plantings. After they appear, we go to the store of seeds and plants and buy, buy, buy: everything is so beautiful, inexpensive, and, it turns out, we absolutely need all this!

Common situation? In this case, we recommend that you sit on a bench right in the store, take a break and read our compatibility article. various kinds plants. Perhaps after that most of your purchases will go to their original place.

You must have noticed that in some people’s garden everything grows and booms, while in others it doesn’t even sprout? If you sadly relate yourself to the latter, do not be discouraged: it's not about you! Most likely, you are simply planting your plants incorrectly, and in this matter both "neighborhood" and order are important. For example, onion And carrot will become excellent neighbors, as the culprit of tears releases a special substance that saves defenseless carrots from pests.

A good solution would be to land peas Near pumpkin: the latter will not allow weeds to grow. If you love growing tomatoes, but the harvest does not please you too much, plant a bed next to it basilica- its smell is not tolerated by caterpillars who want to spoil your tomatoes. In addition, both plants need the same care and watering, so you will make your task much easier. The same can be said about eggplant And Bulgarian pepper.

Leaf salad quite unpretentious and ready to coexist peacefully with many plants, but keep in mind that he will feel bad next to parsley - avoid such a neighborhood. Sunflower it is better to plant far from other plants, since it releases substances into the ground that prevent everyone but him from growing. If most of your plantings suffer from pest invasion, then you can plant nearby sunny flowers marigolds (marigolds): they will do an excellent job of repelling insects and at the same time decorate the beds.

The sequence of planting plants in the soil is also important, which can be oversaturated with any harmful components or, conversely, necessary elements may not be enough.

For example, it is very good to grow carrots and beets after potatoes, but such a predecessor will not fit tomatoes categorically. Follow the vegetable cycle on the table below and you definitely can't go wrong with planting.

Separately, it is worth mentioning about the beds: if you think that it is enough to throw seeds into the ground with a generous handful, then you are greatly mistaken. The shape and type of the bed largely determines the abundance of your future harvest, as well as the frequency of your "exploits" with a shovel and chopper. If you don’t like to mess around in the garden at all, then ideal solution for you will be the so-called "lazy" beds. This version of the beds absolutely does not require weeding or care, yes, yes, you read everything correctly.

Preparation of such beds is done in advance in order to carefully and properly fertilize the soil. The soil is also mulched, which subsequently does not allow weeds to sprout. The earth is loosened and weeded once - during planting. After that, regular watering is enough. To some, this idea may seem strange, but it really works.

The soil fertilized in advance saturates the plants with all necessary components, A proper fit"neighbors" reduces the appearance of weeds and pests to a minimum. In addition, due to the lack of weeding, the plants grow larger and hardier.

Another interesting option are "smart" beds. In composition, they are very similar to "lazy", but in "smart" beds, the emphasis is on even more thorough fertilization of the soil - most often it is compost with the addition of straw. From above, such a combination is covered with a small layer of earth. Such beds are often made very high, they can reach a height of more than a meter. This contributes to the fact that the landing is better warmed up by the sun.

Spring is the time to take a look at your summer cottages with a fresh look.

Now it is very important to correctly plan the location of future beds and landings on them. This is one of the main components of summer success.

Change orientation

It is believed that the beds should be arranged according to the compass - from north to south. But this general recommendation not suitable for everyone.

It is much more important that the morning and evening rays of the sun could illuminate the rows of plants, so that high plantings do not obscure low ones in the morning. After all, it is not hot morning and partly evening sun rays that are most favorable for the best photosynthesis, for the development and fruiting of plants. If the plants are tall, then the optimal location of the ridges in the direction from west to east, so that the low morning rays of the sun can freely "slide" along the rows of plants, illuminating each of them.

Here is what is important to know when choosing a place and preparing beds:

1 Ridges stretching from north to south are good only for low plants And horizontal section, where water during irrigation (or rain) does not stagnate and does not roll faster than it should.

2 If the site has a slight slope, then it is more important to place the landings horizontally, that is, across the slope. So the plants will receive the same amount of moisture. Small bumps it is worth leveling, pouring the earth.

3 Make the beds the same length and width. At experienced gardeners they measure nine, four and a half or three meters long. And the optimal, and the most "fashionable" width among specialists today, which makes it possible to cultivate the land with convenience, is 45 centimeters for all crops. This standardization helps in calculating planted plants and fertilizer consumption.

4 When the plot is uneven, the south side is considered ideal for growing vegetables - due to the more intensive solar activity there the crop ripens much faster.

5 For one family (with a properly planned plot), it is enough to allocate one hundred square meters of land for vegetables. At proper care she will provide a harvest of plums.

friend onion

Plants have a special relationship with each other. Plant a beet next to a cucumber and you will get an excellent harvest. But it’s better not to plant tomatoes next to cucumbers - they have different views on life: one loves constant humidity, and the other gets sick from it.

Properly planted nearby crops even help each other get rid of pests.

Eg, experienced gardeners practice such an unusual neighborhood: among garden strawberries plant onions and garlic. This is a reliable remedy for gray rot and strawberry weevil. And if you plant parsley along the edges of the beds, then the number of slugs will noticeably decrease. What else do you need to know about the neighborhood of plants?

Garlic- beneficial effect on many plants. Drop him between the rows different cultures, And strong smell garlic will drive away pests. It is especially effective for fighting aphids; from such a neighborhood, it disappears after a few days.

Beet- stimulates the growth of spinach, beans, tomatoes, potatoes. One of interesting features This culture is that the secretions of its root crops have antibiotic properties, therefore planting it next to some vegetables, in particular carrots, has a healing effect.

Bush beans- Significantly reduces the amount colorado potato beetle on the ridges with potatoes. Beans are also "friends" with carrots, beets, eggplant, pumpkin, feel comfortable next to corn. If next to bush beans plant radishes, the roots will turn out to be especially tender. Favorably affects beans and tomatoes.

Tomatoes- grow well next to celery, radish, radish, lettuce, corn, cabbage, onion, garlic, spinach, parsley. The neighborhood of white cabbage and tomatoes is favorable, cabbage butterflies do not like the smell of tomato tops.

Cabbage- grows well next to most crops, but ideal neighbors for her are potatoes and onions, as well as celery and lettuce (protect cabbage from earthen fleas), dill (the plant fights aphids and improves the taste of heads of cabbage).

Dill- growing on the same bed with cucumbers, it prolongs their fruiting period. And the neighborhood with garlic and onions save cucumbers from many diseases.

cucumbers- favorable to beans: they grow faster from living together. Plant beans along the edge of your cucumber patch and you won't be disappointed.

But cucumbers have many rivals - potatoes, corn, radishes, radishes, spinach, basil are no less hungry for neighbors with beans. The basil is even ready to help the coveted neighbor - it reduces the defeat of the beans by the caryopsis.

Pepper- a wonderful "partner" for basil and thyme. Eggplant can be safely planted next to beans, onions, thyme, herbs.

Carrot- Feels good next to peas, beets, onions, tomatoes, radishes, parsley, spinach, lettuce, marjoram, sage.

Onion- best friend and carrots. Planted side by side, they are successfully protected from pests. Each of them has its own pest - the fly, respectively, carrot and onion. But the onion fly does not tolerate the smell of carrots, and the carrot fly disappears if onions grow nearby.

Onion relieves many other pests, and also helps in nitrogen nutrition cabbage, carrots, beets, parsley, celery, radish, spinach, lettuce chicory.

To hate - one step

Sometimes the plant neighborhood, on the contrary, turns out to be unfavorable. So, all legumes do not grow well next to onions and garlic. Grapes do not tolerate the neighborhood with cabbage. Garlic develops slowly if beets are planted nearby.

Cucumber does not tolerate cohabitation with essential oil crops. He doesn't like tomatoes either. It is only in a salad that tomato and cucumber go well together. And in the garden, their relationship is close to hostile.

For successful growth, tomatoes need dry hot air, rare but plentiful watering. Excessive soil moisture provokes late blight in tomatoes.

Cucumbers prefer warm dampness. But planting tomatoes on those beds on which cucumbers grew last year, and vice versa, is possible.

Many gardeners in early spring they scatter the ashes over the snow-covered beds, as soon as the sun warms up. At the same time, the earth is freed from snow and melt water two weeks earlier and warms up faster.

Melting snow is very helpful. IN melt waters contained a large number of a variety of trace elements that are easily assimilated by plants. Therefore, try to retain this moisture, make furrows and rolls across the slopes. Arrange drainage grooves in the lowlands.

Do not repeat the common mistake: do not delay the melting of snow under the crowns of trees with manure, sawdust and other things. You will not get any benefit from this technique, and the harm can be significant. Under the influence of positive air temperatures above-ground part plants awakens and requires nutrition and moisture. The roots at this time are in frozen soil and are not able to "work". As a result, the so-called physiological drying of the crown may occur.

You can quickly and easily dry the cellar from spring dampness with a mini-fan installed on the suction ventilation pipe.

For growing seedlings, a box with a removable bottom is well suited. When transplanted into the ground, the plants are not damaged at all.

From plastic bottle it turns out a convenient watering can for seedlings. To do this, make a hole in the lid with a hot nail and insert a cocktail tube with a bent tip.

Two polyethylene strips laid crosswise on the bottom of the container with seedling soil will help to extract the plant quickly, easily and without damaging the root when planting it in the garden.

So that the seedlings do not stretch too much, they should be transferred to a cooler place at night. For example, from the window near the heating battery - to the floor or to the balcony doors.

If every morning you several times (5, 10 or 20) pass over the seedlings on the windowsill or in the greenhouse with a cardboard or hand, then your plants will grow more squat and strong.

The compatibility of vegetables in the garden is a much more important issue than it might seem at first glance. Among plants, as among people, there are friends and enemies. The quality of the crop, and in general the vital activity of certain plants, may depend on the knowledge of these nuances. Let's take a closer look at what to plant next to what.

mixed landings

The problems of the interaction of plants in the garden are dealt with by a special science - allelopathy. Any plant releases into the soil and air a variety of substances that positively or negatively affect the "neighbors". The useful and harmful neighborhood of vegetables in the beds is presented in the table below. In the meantime, consider the advantages of technology mixed landings:

space is saved in the garden; the soil is less depleted, there is no need for an annual crop rotation; less effort is required to treat pests, since some plants themselves repel them; when vegetables are planted together in the beds, additional fertilizers are almost not required; the quality of the crop and taste qualities fruits (for example, beans can make radishes tastier, and mint can make white cabbage), as well as the amount of vitamins and sugars in them.

Rules to be followed when organizing combined landings vegetable crops:

The width of each bed must exceed a meter. This will be necessary in the future for the convenience of caring for plants. The bed is divided into several sections. Such crops are planted in the central one, which grow and ripen for a long time. These are peppers, cabbage, tomatoes. When the season comes, they will already occupy a good half of the ridge. Those types of crops that ripen quickly are planted from the edges. Mostly greens, but also strawberries and grapes.

An example of a properly organized garden bed for joint plantings:

Lettuce grows on the edge, in the second row - carrots or radishes, alternating with marjoram, in the third - onions. The 4th and 5th row correspond to the 1st and 2nd. Cucumbers are planted in the middle.

You can come up with a lot of similar schemes, it all depends on necessary plants and from your attentiveness in matters of their combination.

The neighborhood of vegetables in the beds

Good neighbors are radishes, beans, lettuce, mint, dill, spinach. But tomatoes and cucumbers do not combine at all, because they require different amounts of moisture. More tomatoes need a lot fresh air, and cucumbers prefer the greenhouse effect. In general, tomatoes are not combined with almost any of the garden crops. The exceptions are radishes, asparagus, garlic, parsley.

But basil is almost universal and can benefit any plant.

Cabbage is not recommended to be planted next to beets, carrots, beans, and pumpkin will not be happy with potatoes. It is better to plant it with relatives - zucchini, squash or melons. Otherwise, the harvest will be much worse.

Useful neighbors of beets are cabbage, zucchini, legumes.

Peas go well with corn, lettuce and cabbage, but it doesn’t feel good if its neighbors in the garden are zucchini, onions, and beans.

Ideal neighbors of dill are potatoes and parsley, cucumbers are eggplant, onion, lettuce.

Potatoes are usually planted separately, away from other crops. But it should be noted that horseradish will help protect it from bedbugs, and beans / peas or other legumes will saturate the earth with nitrogen, which will positively affect the quantity and quality of the crop. They also repel Colorado potato beetles.

Every plant needs pollinators, here's why good decision will plant flowers next to vegetables. In addition to flowers, marjoram, mint, lemon balm are attractive to pollinating insects. These herbs are always useful on the farm for use in culinary or medicinal purposes, and at the same time the yield of your vegetable crops will increase significantly. In addition, they wonderfully decorate the summer cottage.

Another important point: the presence of earthworms in the soil. They loosen the soil, which increases the amount of oxygen in it. Worms are attracted to crops such as onion, valerian, chicory.

Spinach - very convenient option for joint plantings, because it releases a lot of saponin into the soil - a substance that promotes root growth and improves access to water and nutrients. They also have the same property different types primrose.

Table of compatibility of vegetables in the beds

More detailed data can be found in the following tables:

Examples of bad neighborhood not included in the tables

When organizing joint plantings of vegetables in the garden, make sure that the gooseberries are away from the currants, otherwise the moth, a pest dangerous for berries, will actively multiply.

A pear planted near a cherry will often get sick. The same situation is observed when planting next to a sweet cherry or cherry of any kind of currant. And a juniper planted under a pear is likely to infect it with fungal infections.

The apple tree also loses from the neighborhood of cherries / sweet cherries, as well as apricots, barberries, lilacs. In general, sweet cherry reacts aggressively to any planting under its crown, especially trees.

To prevent the appearance of a pest called strawberry-raspberry weevil, do not plant strawberries and raspberries next to each other. But almost any other plants next to raspberries, on the contrary, feel better, because it saturates the earth with oxygen.

It is noteworthy that it is not advisable to plant a birch in your garden - it has a very strong root system absorbing great amount water by taking it away from other plants. The same can be said about maple and spruce.

Plants that can repel pests:

Celery and shag resist the cabbage fly, onions are an excellent remedy against spider mite. Wormwood and garlic are enemies of cruciferous fleas, and tomatoes are not to the liking of moths and suckers. Garlic is also effective in repelling aphids, and also helps the soil accumulate sulfur.

Rules for the neighborhood of vegetables for greenhouses

If the compatibility of vegetables when planting in a greenhouse is important to you, keep in mind the following factors:

vegetables grow faster in greenhouses, and in general the harvest is better; in order to properly plant vegetables in a garden bed in a greenhouse, you need to adhere to the same principles as on open ground; before planting, you need to carefully develop a layout of beds; you need to take into account the cardinal points - cucumbers and tomatoes grow best on the sunny south side.

The compatibility of plants in a garden bed in a greenhouse is closely related to the season. There are two types of greenhouse mixed planting. In the first, greens are grown in early spring, in the second, different crops are cultivated throughout the season. In other words, greens are planted first, which ripens very quickly, then they are harvested and planted in the same place with tomatoes or cucumbers.

In the greenhouse, it is desirable to plant those plants that require similar conditions humidity and temperature. Cucumbers provide abundant shade, so it is quite possible to place shade-loving crops next to them. Tomatoes will do well with white cabbage.

Mixed planting of vegetables will help you get a good harvest even in difficult conditions - poor soil, unsuitable climate. Can be combined mixed beds and with the technology of compacted crops to improve the result. In a word, the creation of the garden of your dreams is in your hands, if you correctly use modern developments. Both the novice and experienced gardener can learn something new from mixed planting technology.

Perhaps all gardeners want to make the most of the area of ​​​​the site and free beds are a rarity. Every meter of fertile land is sown with a crop, but often only one. For a more productive use of space, you can use the compact (mixed) landing method.

Few people use such a scheme for obtaining a crop, but in vain, because it is extremely effective. The benefit is obvious:

• the volume of production received is multiplied without the purchase of additional land,
• the soil does not use its resources so actively,
• plants that receive a mutually beneficial location are better protected from pests,
• it is also possible to increase the taste.

How to combine plants for the neighborhood?

You can focus on the ripening period of vegetables according to the alternation method. That is, after collecting early harvest one crop can be planted in the same soil seedlings of another plant.

Thus, crops of carrots, parsley, beets are well combined with crops lettuce, and late white cabbage with early cauliflower. In this case, cabbage is grown seedling way.

Compactor and main crop

Often you can also find such a variant of compaction, when a companion plant is planted next to the main plant - a “compacter”. Such a neighborhood useful for the main crop due to the work of the satellite which may result in inhibition of growth weeds which can keep the use of weed-killing poisons to a minimum.

In addition, there is physically little space in a densely populated garden bed and there is simply nowhere for weeds to grow. This will reduce the time spent on weeding. In addition to this to useful properties neighboring cultures include:

• attraction of insects for pollination,
• repelling harmful organisms by mixing odors,
• moisture retention and useful substances in the ground.

At the same time, the accompanying plant is able to produce those elements that will serve as fertilizer for the main one. An example is soil enrichment with nitrogen by members of the legume family.

Flowerbed

At joint landing vegetable crops, a garden bed can also be organized in the form of a flower bed, planted in the middle tall plants with a long vegetative period, and plant compact, fast-maturing crops around.

An excellent example is the cultivation of tomatoes with radishes, lettuce, spinach, turnips or summer radishes according to this scheme. The main crop, in this case tomatoes, is grown in seedlings and planted after the end of the frost period.

When choosing plants for compacted beds, one should also focus on their height, it is desirable that it be different. The tiered arrangement of the leaves of neighboring plants will create favorable conditions for their growth, giving enough space to house them and collect solar energy.

Important Points

• Do not allow light-loving plants to be oppressed by shade and subjected to excessive flows. sun rays sensitive cultures.
• Without bright light gourds, cucumbers, peppers, corn, tomato, eggplant will feel bad.
• Cabbage, turnips, radishes, onions, garlic and carrots require a little more shade. Lettuce, zucchini and parsley prefer shading;

Not only useless, but also harmful will be the neighborhood of vegetables of the same family, since they are subject to the same diseases, are equally attractive to pests and have common “gastronomic” needs.

It will be useful to read the rules.

Spices will come in handy in almost any joint landing. Due to the powerful aroma, they are able to confuse or scare away harmful insects, attract pollinators and predators that eat pests.

For example, you can plant sage, mint, oregano, marjoram, lemon balm, basil, thyme or cilantro.

Table: Good and bad pairings of vegetables

Mixed Planting Schemes of Vegetables, Good and Bad Companions

Table: spacing between different vegetables in compacted planting.

Below you will find various combinations of vegetable crops, as well as plants that are undesirable to plant next to a particular vegetable. Some landing schemes are given.

tomatoes

Radishes, corn, carrots, lettuce, basil, beets, cabbage, celery, parsley, spinach, beans, marigolds, sage, peppermint.

Incompatible with turnip, fennel, dill, kohlrabi, hyssop.

Planting pattern: tomatoes and beans

Diagram: tomatoes and other crops

Spinach, together with the tomato bush, has a good effect on strawberries, allowing it to increase yields.

1. Strawberries are planted in August.
2. In the spring of the new year, greens and vegetables are sown. (One tomato per meter)
3. After harvesting the greenery, the rest of the crops develop well.

cucumbers

Radishes, bush beans, garlic, beets, fennel, celery, onions, cabbage.

Incompatible with potatoes, sage, parsley.

Pattern: dill and cucumber

Carrot

Onions, peas, cabbage, beans, tobacco, sage, radish.

Incompatible with celery, dill and other umbrellas.

Onions and carrots perfectly protect each other from pests - onion and carrot flies!

Planting scheme for onions, spinach and carrots

Similarly, parsley can be sown instead of carrots.

Scheme: carrots and marjoram

It is useful for carrots to coexist with sage and marjoram.

Potato

Onions, beans, corn, peas, White cabbage, marigolds, nasturtium, spinach, lettuce, parsley.

Incompatible with tomatoes, raspberries, celery, fennel, broccoli.

Cabbage

Beets, parsley, dill, lettuce, peas, celery, nasturtium, calendula, geranium, mint.

Planting pattern: cabbage and beets

For beds 1 meter wide.

Broccoli and carrots

1. Sow carrots in early spring.
2. Broccoli is planted in May.

Broccoli, lettuce and parsley

For beds 1 meter wide.

1. In early spring, parsley is sown in 3 rows: in the center and along the edges.
2. In May, broccoli is planted between the rows of parsley. Between bushes - 45 cm, between rows - 60 cm.
3. The parsley is thinned.
4. Lettuce seedlings are planted at a distance of 30-45 cm.

Pepper

Basil, carrot, onion, parsley, marjoram.

Incompatible with beets.

Salad

Strawberries, cucumbers, beets, carrots, radish, cabbage.

Scheme of planting beets and lettuce

Pattern: lettuce and other crops

Of the advantages of such a landing: lettuce helps fight cruciferous fleas.

Pay attention! When implementing the so-called tight fit method, do not forget about the preliminary the right fertilizer soil with organic and mineral fertilizers.

Video: Thickened landing from Galina Kizima

Sowing a bed with an additional crop is not at all difficult, you just need to select the appropriate plants and the result will not be long in coming. The use of soil resources is optimized, yields will increase, and the cultural diversity in the garden will also increase.

Memo to the gardener: Which vegetables can be planted nearby and which cannot

The compacted seeding also helps to spend less time on agrotechnical work. In addition to vegetables, you can also use decorative flower plants that will transform the site with their iridescent colors.

The layout of the garden is one of the components spring work. The site plan and the placement of landings are made by every summer resident, at least mentally. Some keep entire notebooks with notes and planting patterns in order to observe crop rotation in the garden. Planning a garden allows you to maximize the use of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. It is especially in demand in areas with a small area.

Common types

There are several garden models. They differ in purpose and form.

Rectangular- combines horticultural and horticultural crops. Beds with vegetables are alternately placed, followed by shrubs, and trees in the distance. This model is usually used on square plots, and with all the variety of crops, a square shape is maintained.

Decorative- performed in the form of a circle. Planted in the center of the circle decorative types flowers or other plants. Behind them a ring is placed berry bushes e.g. raspberries, strawberries. There are trees along the edges.

Free the model is built on the basis of the conditions and size of the site. In an arbitrary form, vegetable and horticultural crops. Often in this model, the placement of plantings depends on the lighting and irrigation possibilities.

Usually, difficulties with the placement of landings arise for those who have acquired new plot. But experienced gardeners also annually plan the beds in advance. And to plan the garden was faster and easier, you can use the following tips.

Bed Orientation

When planning beds and plantings in the garden, it is necessary to determine the cardinal points. It is necessary to break the beds from south to north and from west to east. This arrangement will more evenly illuminate the plants and warm the soil.

On the north side it is desirable to land fruit trees and shrubs, as they will protect the garden from the cold wind. Heat-loving plants are usually planted on the south side of the site. north side sown with root crops - radish and turnip.

Plot soil

The success of growing crops depends on how fertile the soil on the site and its granulometric composition. fertile soils With high content humus have a light loose structure and usually a neutral pH. If the soils in the garden are heavy and loamy, then they must be fertilized annually with organic matter.

For example, compost, peat, manure or humus. sandy soils usually poor in minerals, as they are quickly washed out of such soil. Therefore, they also need to add mineral fertilizers, peat and manure.

Lot location

Of no small importance is the relief of the garden. Areas located in the lowlands will be subject to waterlogging. Therefore, they need to do drainage outlets and periodically pour the earth.

High-lying areas are often affected strong winds, as a result of which the probability of soil depletion is high. In these areas, it is advisable to plant trees and shrubs around the perimeter. Some areas are located on the slopes, because of this, after heavy rains, all the water tends to go down. Agronomists in this case recommend planting across the slope.

Based on the above conditions, each summer resident can make his own garden planning for himself.

Preparing the site for planting vegetables

To prepare the site for planting vegetables, a diagram is drawn before the start of the season. All buildings are reflected on it, and beds are also applied. After the beds are placed, you can plan out the irrigation system, paths, and so on.

What beds to plan

In order to receive maximum yield vegetables need to be prepared for plants good conditions. They play an important role here. For low-lying areas and vegetable gardens with poor soil the best option there will be bulk and fenced beds.

Their advantage lies in the fact that it is necessary to raise the level of the soil and improve its fertility not in the entire garden, but in each individual garden bed.

Bulk beds are made high and fenced with cobblestones, bricks, special barriers or slate so that the soil does not spread.

On poor soils, if they do not become swampy and do not suffer from excess moisture, the ground level can not be raised. It is enough to prepare the bed and enclose it with barriers. Peat, humus, compost and ordinary land.

In small areas, you can plant all the desired crops. This takes a few pieces. plastic pipe small diameter. It is installed vertically, holes are cut in it and stuffed with soil. In such beds, you can plant Victoria, strawberries and greens.

Neighborhood of cultures

To receive good harvests and protect yourself from pests with the help of vegetables, herbs and flowers growing nearby, it is necessary to properly plan the crops that will coexist in the garden.

To do this, you can use a special table, which indicates which ones, how which ones are not. For example, you should not plant cucumbers with tomatoes next to them, or several different vegetables from the same family.